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On 18 December 2011 14:19, Derek Burch wrote:
> ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** **
>
> Dylan, and anyone else who would like to join in, ****
>
> ** **
>
> Organised notes on this would make a great article for Aroideana, and if
> several people want to put in their own experience it could swell to a ne at
> little ‘horticultural’ item.****
>
> ** **
>
> Derek****
>
> ** **
> ------------------------------
>
> *From:* aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:
> aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] *On Behalf Of *Hannon
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 14, 2011 11:15 PM
> *To:* Discussion of aroids
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> Hi Christopher,****
>
> ** **
>
> That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby ****Pomona**** is
> 43%, which in reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime
> humidity over 43%, often reaching the dew point. The ****Los Angeles****a rea is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal influence. It is not a
> desert.****
>
> ** **
>
> The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the
> growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost
> its leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry
> soil. It should not be watered until the next growing season in most case s.
> If the plant has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this ro ot
> system will help pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die
> down; the roots are dying back at this point also. Dormant tubers should
> not be put away wet so to speak but I don't know if humidity alone is
> enough to prevent soil from drying "enough". This issue will vary between
> species and genera.****
>
> ** **
>
> It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their pot s
> so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly
> around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and
> more warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plan t
> is dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a
> pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master
> watering (to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural
> practice.****
>
> ** **
>
> There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any
> given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us
> growers. Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfal l
> when it is dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants
> like Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dr y
> that the perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good
> indication that a plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or
> watering). Some tuberous aroids have them while others do not.****
>
> ** **
>
> I hope this helps.****
>
> ** **
>
> Dylan****
>
> ** **
>
> On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers
> wrote:****
>
> Hiyer, Dylan!****
>
> ****
>
> What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are ,
> the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry.****
>
> ****
>
> Christopher****
>
> On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote:****
>
> ** **
>
> Dear Marek, ****
>
> ** **
>
> The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them i n
> the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have
> greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The
> idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in
> many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most case s.
> ****
>
> ** **
>
> 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such
> pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especiall y
> root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the ho le
> left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soi l
> dries out as the leaves yellow there should be *no moisture at all* at
> the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and wi ll
> retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant.
> (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the po t
> and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When the y
> have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often
> distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ide al
> state for storage over winter (or summer).****
>
> ** **
>
> 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and
> repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will
> water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few
> weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots ar e
> well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant
> starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and the n
> shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve
> disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and
> their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including
> Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep i n
> mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is
> only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six
> months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps th e
> longevity of a mix substantially.****
>
> ** **
>
> It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot siz e
> until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a
> plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determine s
> pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I
> prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a
> relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container
> that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a
> sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to le t
> the *soil surface* go very dry between waterings, assuming everything
> else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other
> geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to
> date.****
>
> ** **
>
> Dylan Hannon****
>
> ** **
>
> On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote:****
>
> Dear Hannon,****
>
> ****
>
> I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until
> the new bud grows enough large to break.****
>
> As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the
> dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither****
>
> or when it starts to grow again?****
>
> In all the methods there are good and bad things.****
>
> ****
>
> 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and
> the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what
> may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and
> repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal.****
>
> ****
>
> 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry
> for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and
> sand.****
>
> ****
>
> So when is the best time to change soil in pots?****
>
> Marek****
>
> ****
>
> ****
>
> ----- Original Message ----- ****
>
> *From:* Hannon ****
>
> *To:* Discussion of aroids ****
>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM****
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum****
>
> ** **
>
> Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with al l
> geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for
> probably most but not all tuberous aroids.****
>
> On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote:****
>
> Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot
> and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window.****
>
> ****
>
> In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> abri1973@wp.pl writes:****
>
> Hello,****
>
> ****
>
> I've had *Taccarum weddellianum *since 2005, every year it produces a
> leaf and usually a "baby" tuber.****
>
> But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber
> very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year.****
>
> I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus .
> ****
>
> It grows in a southern window.****
>
> When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. *
> ***
>
> ****
>
> What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger?****
>
> Here are photos of my plant:****
>
> http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm****
>
> ****
>
> Please help,****
>
> Marek****
>
> ****
>
>
>
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> ****
>
> ** **
>
> --
> "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an
> useful plant to it's culture*"
> - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r
> 1800****
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> ****
>
> ** **
>
> --
> "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an
> useful plant to it's culture*"
> - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r
> 1800****
>
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> -- ****
>
> D. Christopher Rogers
> ((,///////////=======<
> 785.864.1714****
>
> Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist
> ****Kansas**** Biological Survey
> ****Kansas** **University****, Higuchi Hall
> ****2101 Constant Avenue**, **Lawrence**, **KS** **66047****-3759 ****USA *
> *******
>
> http://www.kbs.ku.edu/****
>
> http://www.kbs.ku.edu/directory/d-christopher-rogers/****
>
>
> Associate Editor, Journal of Crustacean Biology
> http://www.thecrustaceansociety.org/****
>
> ****
>
> Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate
> Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG ****
>
>
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> ****
>
> ** **
>
> --
> "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an
> useful plant to it's culture*"
> - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r
> 1800****
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com
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--
"*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an
useful plant to its culture*"
- Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September
1800
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