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Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum
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From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com>
on 2011.12.19 at 22:23:33
Derek,
Do you mean something like "Caring for dormant tuberous aroids" ? Or something broader about growing tuberous aroids in pots? I agree that a detailed essay in either area would be helpful to many growers. I am happy to contribute however I can.
Dylan On 18 December 2011 14:19, Derek Burch <derek@horticulturist.com> wrote:
Dylan, and anyone else who would like to
join in,
=A0
Organised notes on this would make a great
article for Aroideana, and if several people want to put in their own
experience it could swell to a neat little =91horticultural=92 item.
=A0
Derek
=A0
=A0
Hi Christopher,
That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby Pomona is 43%, which in
reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime humidity over 43%,
often reaching the dew point. The Los
Angeles area is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal
influence. It is not a desert.
The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the
growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost its
leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry soil. It
should not be watered until the next growing season in most cases. If the plant
has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this root system will help
pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die down; the roots are dying
back at this point also. Dormant tubers should not be put away wet so to speak
but I don't know if humidity alone is enough to prevent soil from drying
"enough". This issue will vary between species and genera.
It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their
pots so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly
around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and more
warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plant is
dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a
pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master watering
(to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural practice.
There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any
given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us growers.
Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfall when it is
dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants like
Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dry that the
perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good indication that a
plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or watering). Some
tuberous aroids have them while others do not.
=A0
On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers <branchiopod@gmail.com> wrote:
What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you
are, the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry.
On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon <othonna@gmail.com>
wrote:
Dear Marek,
The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them
in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have greater
exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The idea of
unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in many hobbyist
circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases.=A0
1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such
pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially root
mealy.=A0When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the hole
left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When=A0the soil
dries out as the leaves yellow there should be no
moisture at all at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is
not as dry as you might think and will retain some beneficial moisture for
months while the plant is dormant. (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few
small weeds to stay in the pot and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after
zero watering). When they have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid
tubers/corms will often distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this
'package' is the ideal state for storage over winter (or summer).
2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and
repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will water
well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few weeks then
I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are well along
(with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant starting its
growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then shift to the
appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve disturbing the root
ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and their kin seem to need
repotting every 1-2 years while others (including Biarum) can go on for a
number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in mind that any soil mix used
by a plant that is dormant half the year is only on duty for about six months.
Any soil mix that is exhausted in six months is hardly worthy of the name. The
addition of coarse sand helps the longevity of a mix substantially.
It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot
size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a
plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines pot
size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I prefer a
smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a relatively large
pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container that takes weeks rather
than days to dry and justify the next watering is a sign that the pot is too
large for the root system. It is important to let the soil surface go very dry between
waterings, assuming everything else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species
and hundreds of other geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these=A0techniques
has been successful to date.
=A0
On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent <abri1973@wp.pl> wrote:
I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont
water them until the new bud grows enough large to break.
As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil
during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither
or when it starts to grow again?
In all the methods there are good and bad things.
1. Leaving=A0the tuber=A0in the old soil=A0means
leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the
bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to
grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal.
2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new
soil left dry for a few months loses=A0its moisture and structure,
it=A0turns into dust and sand.
So when is the best time to change soil in pots?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, December
10, 2011 3:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l]
Cultivation of Taccarum
Agreed that keeping it in
its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should
be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous
aroids.
On 9 December 2011 05:53, <Zanezirklejr@aol.com> wrote:
Your problem is taking it out of the
soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be
outside not in a window.
In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28
P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl
writes:
I've had Taccarum weddellianum since
2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber.
But... it doesn't grow in size almost at
all, although the tuber very=A0slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall
every year.
I use regular pot soil, and the plant is
fertilized with natural biohumus.
It grows in a southern window.
When it's dormant I store it without soil
in the normal room temperature.
What do I do wrong? What should I do to
make it grow larger?
Here are photos of my plant:
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greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to
it's culture"
- Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800
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--
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greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to
it's culture"
- Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800
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--
D. Christopher Rogers
((,///////////=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D<
785.864.1714
Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist
Kansas
Biological Survey
Kansas University, Higuchi Hall
2101 Constant Avenue,
Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA
Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate
Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG
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greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to
it's culture"
- Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800
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