Cultivation of Taccarum

From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.12.04 at 01:36:23(22443) Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek HTML +More ------=_NextPart_000_009B_01CCB22D.83842610-- --==============f45569319900075559==

From: "Ertelt, Jonathan B" <jonathan.ertelt at Vanderbilt.Edu> on 2011.12.08 at 15:54:43(22454) Marek, Greetings. As usual, I have no magic answers � but I have had them get larger and come along and flower. I guess originally just judging from the size the leaf was getting to I overpotted, and then watered and fed the plant abundantly. I have multiple new �babies� every year, but I also have had several of the impressive flowers come along. I don�t pull it out of the soil during the winter, and in the old greenhouses it would even get hit occasionally with water while dormant (the death knell for some, but not this one). Hope this helps. Good Growing. Jonathan HTML +More On 12/3/11 7:36 PM, "Marek Argent" wrote: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek --_000_CB0639E311136jonathanerteltvanderbiltedu_-- --==============c07113734991490228==

From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com> on 2011.12.08 at 23:31:05(22458) Marek, It looks like your mix does not dry out at all. I recommend allowing the surface of the soil to dry completely between waterings. Also, the soil in the pot should come right up to the brim so that the plant+soil does not sit so low in the pot. I have done well with this species in a mix of peat+sand+perlite. When the leaf is fully formed the plant is thirsty and dries out a lot between waterings; this does no harm and in fact may help. My plants are also pot-bound-- the largest blooming specimens are in 8" pots. Keeping plants pot-bound in general is of great benefit to a wide range of species. I wonder if you might have here T. warmingii instead? Essentially the same culture. Best of luck, Dylan HTML +More 2011/12/3 Marek Argent Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 --f46d044470bff7c91104b39d0f48-- --==============�52906697791651150==

From: Zanezirklejr at aol.com on 2011.12.09 at 13:53:02(22459) Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, HTML +More I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --part1_ff81.10bdd98e.3c136cbe_boundary-- --==============�73172025806511222==

From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com> on 2011.12.10 at 02:46:29(22461) Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: HTML +More Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 --f46d044470bf96f6ff04b3b3e8a2-- --==============877144013015708312==

From: "Marek Argent" <abri1973 at wp.pl> on 2011.12.12 at 19:02:14(22469) Dear Hannon, I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until the new bud grows enough large to break. As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither or when it starts to grow again? In all the methods there are good and bad things. 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and sand. So when is the best time to change soil in pots? Marek HTML +More ----- Original Message ----- From: Hannon To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: href="http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm" target=_blank>http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l No virus found in the message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 ------=_NextPart_000_007B_01CCB908.F12914A0-- --=============='47247378483130986==

From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com> on 2011.12.13 at 00:38:17(22473) Dear Marek, The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases. 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the hole left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soil dries out as the leaves yellow there should be no moisture at all at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and will retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the pot and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When they have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ideal state for storage over winter (or summer). 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps the longevity of a mix substantially. It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to let the soil surface go very dry between waterings, assuming everything else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to date. Dylan Hannon HTML +More On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote: Dear Hannon, I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until the new bud grows enough large to break. As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither or when it starts to grow again? In all the methods there are good and bad things. 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and sand. So when is the best time to change soil in pots? Marek ----- Original Message ----- From: Hannon To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l No virus found in the message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 --f46d0447977d9cabf804b3ee77ea-- --==============�00431841252410764==

From: "D. Christopher Rogers" <branchiopod at gmail.com> on 2011.12.14 at 15:15:06(22478) Hiyer, Dylan! What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are, the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry. Christopher HTML +More On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote: Dear Marek, The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases. 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the hole left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soil dries out as the leaves yellow there should be no moisture at all at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and will retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the pot and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When they have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ideal state for storage over winter (or summer). 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps the longevity of a mix substantially. It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to let the soil surface go very dry between waterings, assuming everything else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to date. Dylan Hannon On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote: Dear Hannon, I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until the new bud grows enough large to break. As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither or when it starts to grow again? In all the methods there are good and bad things. 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and sand. So when is the best time to change soil in pots? Marek ----- Original Message ----- From: Hannon To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l No virus found in the message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======

From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com> on 2011.12.15 at 04:15:24(22480) Hi Christopher, That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby Pomona is 43%, which in reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime humidity over 43%, often reaching the dew point. The Los Angeles area is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal influence. It is not a desert. The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost its leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry soil. It should not be watered until the next growing season in most cases. If the plant has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this root system will help pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die down; the roots are dying back at this point also. Dormant tubers should not be put away wet so to speak but I don't know if humidity alone is enough to prevent soil from drying "enough". This issue will vary between species and genera. HTML +More It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their pots so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and more warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plant is dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master watering (to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural practice. There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us growers. Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfall when it is dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants like Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dry that the perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good indication that a plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or watering). Some tuberous aroids have them while others do not. I hope this helps. Dylan On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: > Hiyer, Dylan! > > What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are, > the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry. > > Christopher > > On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote: > >> >> Dear Marek, >> >> The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them >> in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have >> greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The >> idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in >> many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases. >> >> 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such >> pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially >> root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the >> hole left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the >> soil dries out as the leaves yellow there should be *no moisture at all*at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and >> will retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. >> (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the pot >> and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When they >> have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often >> distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ideal >> state for storage over winter (or summer). >> >> 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and >> repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will >> water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few >> weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are >> well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant >> starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then >> shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve >> disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and >> their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including >> Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in >> mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is >> only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six >> months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps the >> longevity of a mix substantially. >> >> It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot >> size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a >> plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines >> pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I >> prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a >> relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container >> that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a >> sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to let >> the *soil surface* go very dry between waterings, assuming everything >> else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other >> geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to >> date. >> >> Dylan Hannon >> >> On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote: >> >>> ** >>> Dear Hannon, >>> >>> I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until >>> the new bud grows enough large to break. >>> As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the >>> dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither >>> or when it starts to grow again? >>> In all the methods there are good and bad things. >>> >>> 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and >>> the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what >>> may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and >>> repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. >>> >>> 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry >>> for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and >>> sand. >>> >>> So when is the best time to change soil in pots? >>> Marek >>> >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> >>> *From:* Hannon >>> *To:* Discussion of aroids >>> *Sent:* Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM >>> *Subject:* Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum >>> >>> Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with >>> all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true >>> for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. >>> >>> On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: >>> >>>> ** >>>> Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the >>>> pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. >>>> >>>> In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, >>>> abri1973@wp.pl writes: >>>> >>>> Hello, >>>> >>>> I've had *Taccarum weddellianum *since 2005, every year it produces a >>>> leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. >>>> But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber >>>> very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. >>>> I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural >>>> biohumus. >>>> It grows in a southern window. >>>> When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room >>>> temperature. >>>> >>>> What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? >>>> Here are photos of my plant: >>>> http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm >>>> >>>> Please help, >>>> Marek >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Aroid-L mailing list >>>> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com >>>> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l >>>> >>>> >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> Aroid-L mailing list >>>> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com >>>> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an >>> useful plant to it's culture*" >>> - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 >>> September 1800 >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Aroid-L mailing list >>> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com >>> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l >>> >>> ------------------------------ >>> >>> No virus found in the message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >>> Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> Aroid-L mailing list >>> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com >>> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l >>> >>> >> >> >> -- >> "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an >> useful plant to it's culture*" >> - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 >> September 1800 >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Aroid-L mailing list >> Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com >> http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l >> >> > > > -- > D. Christopher Rogers > ((,///////////=======< > 785.864.1714 > Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist > Kansas Biological Survey > Kansas University, Higuchi Hall > 2101 Constant Avenue, Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA > http://www.kbs.ku.edu/ > http://www.kbs.ku.edu/directory/d-christopher-rogers/ > > Associate Editor, Journal of Crustacean Biology > http://www.thecrustaceansociety.org/ > > Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate > Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l > > -- "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture*" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 --e89a8f839b21c33ff604b419bb07 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --==============30628371633893927==--

From: "Derek Burch" <derek at horticulturist.com> on 2011.12.18 at 22:19:33(22485) Dylan, and anyone else who would like to join in, Organised notes on this would make a great article for Aroideana, and if several people want to put in their own experience it could swell to a neat little 'horticultural' item. Derek HTML +More _____ From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Hannon Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2011 11:15 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Hi Christopher, That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby Pomona is 43%, which in reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime humidity over 43%, often reaching the dew point. The Los Angeles area is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal influence. It is not a desert. The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost its leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry soil. It should not be watered until the next growing season in most cases. If the plant has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this root system will help pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die down; the roots are dying back at this point also. Dormant tubers should not be put away wet so to speak but I don't know if humidity alone is enough to prevent soil from drying "enough". This issue will vary between species and genera. It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their pots so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and more warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plant is dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master watering (to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural practice. There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us growers. Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfall when it is dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants like Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dry that the perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good indication that a plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or watering). Some tuberous aroids have them while others do not. I hope this helps. Dylan On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: Hiyer, Dylan! What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are, the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry. Christopher On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote: Dear Marek, The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases. 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the hole left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soil dries out as the leaves yellow there should be no moisture at all at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and will retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the pot and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When they have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ideal state for storage over winter (or summer). 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps the longevity of a mix substantially. It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to let the soil surface go very dry between waterings, assuming everything else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to date. Dylan Hannon On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote: Dear Hannon, I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until the new bud grows enough large to break. As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither or when it starts to grow again? In all the methods there are good and bad things. 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and sand. So when is the best time to change soil in pots? Marek ----- Original Message ----- From: Hannon To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _____ _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _____ No virus found in the message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======< 785.864.1714 Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist Kansas Biological Survey Kansas University, Higuchi Hall 2101 Constant Avenue, Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA http://www.kbs.ku.edu/ http://www.kbs.ku.edu/directory/d-christopher-rogers/ Associate Editor, Journal of Crustacean Biology http://www.thecrustaceansociety.org/ Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01CCBDA9.375EE3B0 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --==============R86931053681353015==--

From: Hannon <othonna at gmail.com> on 2011.12.19 at 22:23:33(22489) Derek, Do you mean something like "Caring for dormant tuberous aroids" ? Or something broader about growing tuberous aroids in pots? I agree that a detailed essay in either area would be helpful to many growers. I am happy to contribute however I can. Dylan HTML +More On 18 December 2011 14:19, Derek Burch wrote: > ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** ** > > Dylan, and anyone else who would like to join in, **** > > ** ** > > Organised notes on this would make a great article for Aroideana, and if > several people want to put in their own experience it could swell to a ne at > little �horticultural� item.**** > > ** ** > > Derek**** > > ** ** > ------------------------------ > > *From:* aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto: > aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] *On Behalf Of *Hannon > *Sent:* Wednesday, December 14, 2011 11:15 PM > *To:* Discussion of aroids > > *Subject:* Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum > **** > > ** ** > > Hi Christopher,**** > > ** ** > > That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby ****Pomona**** is > 43%, which in reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime > humidity over 43%, often reaching the dew point. The ****Los Angeles****a rea is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal influence. It is not a > desert.**** > > ** ** > > The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the > growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost > its leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry > soil. It should not be watered until the next growing season in most case s. > If the plant has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this ro ot > system will help pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die > down; the roots are dying back at this point also. Dormant tubers should > not be put away wet so to speak but I don't know if humidity alone is > enough to prevent soil from drying "enough". This issue will vary between > species and genera.**** > > ** ** > > It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their pot s > so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly > around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and > more warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plan t > is dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a > pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master > watering (to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural > practice.**** > > ** ** > > There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any > given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us > growers. Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfal l > when it is dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants > like Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dr y > that the perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good > indication that a plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or > watering). Some tuberous aroids have them while others do not.**** > > ** ** > > I hope this helps.**** > > ** ** > > Dylan**** > > ** ** > > On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers > wrote:**** > > Hiyer, Dylan!**** > > **** > > What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are , > the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry.**** > > **** > > Christopher**** > > On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote:**** > > ** ** > > Dear Marek, **** > > ** ** > > The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them i n > the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have > greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The > idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in > many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most case s. > **** > > ** ** > > 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such > pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especiall y > root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the ho le > left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soi l > dries out as the leaves yellow there should be *no moisture at all* at > the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and wi ll > retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. > (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the po t > and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When the y > have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often > distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ide al > state for storage over winter (or summer).**** > > ** ** > > 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and > repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will > water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few > weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots ar e > well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant > starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and the n > shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve > disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and > their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including > Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep i n > mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is > only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six > months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps th e > longevity of a mix substantially.**** > > ** ** > > It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot siz e > until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a > plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determine s > pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I > prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a > relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container > that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a > sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to le t > the *soil surface* go very dry between waterings, assuming everything > else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other > geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to > date.**** > > ** ** > > Dylan Hannon**** > > ** ** > > On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote:**** > > Dear Hannon,**** > > **** > > I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until > the new bud grows enough large to break.**** > > As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the > dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither**** > > or when it starts to grow again?**** > > In all the methods there are good and bad things.**** > > **** > > 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and > the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what > may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and > repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal.**** > > **** > > 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry > for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and > sand.**** > > **** > > So when is the best time to change soil in pots?**** > > Marek**** > > **** > > **** > > ----- Original Message ----- **** > > *From:* Hannon **** > > *To:* Discussion of aroids **** > > *Sent:* Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM**** > > *Subject:* Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum**** > > ** ** > > Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with al l > geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for > probably most but not all tuberous aroids.**** > > On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote:**** > > Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot > and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window.**** > > **** > > In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > abri1973@wp.pl writes:**** > > Hello,**** > > **** > > I've had *Taccarum weddellianum *since 2005, every year it produces a > leaf and usually a "baby" tuber.**** > > But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber > very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year.**** > > I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus . > **** > > It grows in a southern window.**** > > When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. * > *** > > **** > > What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger?**** > > Here are photos of my plant:**** > > http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm**** > > **** > > Please help,**** > > Marek**** > > **** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > > > > **** > > ** ** > > -- > "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an > useful plant to it's culture*" > - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r > 1800**** > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > ------------------------------ > > No virus found in the message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11** * > * > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > > > > **** > > ** ** > > -- > "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an > useful plant to it's culture*" > - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r > 1800**** > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > > > > > -- **** > > D. Christopher Rogers > ((,///////////=======< > 785.864.1714**** > > Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist > ****Kansas**** Biological Survey > ****Kansas** **University****, Higuchi Hall > ****2101 Constant Avenue**, **Lawrence**, **KS** **66047****-3759 ****USA * > ******* > > http://www.kbs.ku.edu/**** > > http://www.kbs.ku.edu/directory/d-christopher-rogers/**** > > > Associate Editor, Journal of Crustacean Biology > http://www.thecrustaceansociety.org/**** > > **** > > Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate > Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG **** > > > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l**** > > > > **** > > ** ** > > -- > "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an > useful plant to it's culture*" > - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 Septembe r > 1800**** > > _______________________________________________ > Aroid-L mailing list > Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com > http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l > > -- "*The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to its culture*" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 --f46d0444ef03b4a6cc04b47966c9 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --==============U10043851261829314==--

From: "Derek Burch" <derek at horticulturist.com> on 2011.12.20 at 18:57:29(22493) Dylan, It was the correspondence about what to do when the aroids are dormant that got me thinking about this, but if you would care to expand it to the broader topic I think that it would be a great contribution. Thank you for considering this. Derek HTML +More _____ From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Hannon Sent: Monday, December 19, 2011 5:24 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Derek, Do you mean something like "Caring for dormant tuberous aroids" ? Or something broader about growing tuberous aroids in pots? I agree that a detailed essay in either area would be helpful to many growers. I am happy to contribute however I can. Dylan On 18 December 2011 14:19, Derek Burch wrote: Dylan, and anyone else who would like to join in, Organised notes on this would make a great article for Aroideana, and if several people want to put in their own experience it could swell to a neat little 'horticultural' item. Derek _____ From: aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com [mailto:aroid-l-bounces@www.gizmoworks.com] On Behalf Of Hannon Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2011 11:15 PM To: Discussion of aroids Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Hi Christopher, That is a good point. The "average humidity" for nearby Pomona is 43%, which in reality means daytime humidity mostly <43% and nighttime humidity over 43%, often reaching the dew point. The Los Angeles area is a semi-arid zone with a strong coastal influence. It is not a desert. The drying of the soil we are concerned with is toward the end of the growing season and during the dormant period. A plant that has just lost its leaves by yellowing and withering should already be in relatively dry soil. It should not be watered until the next growing season in most cases. If the plant has had a good season with vigorous root growth then this root system will help pull water out of the soil just before the leaves die down; the roots are dying back at this point also. Dormant tubers should not be put away wet so to speak but I don't know if humidity alone is enough to prevent soil from drying "enough". This issue will vary between species and genera. It is worth re-emphasizing that plants are best grown 'snug' in their pots so that the soil dries out regularly and the roots can develop mainly around the perimeter of the rootball, where there is better aeration and more warmth. It is important in avoiding excess moisture whether the plant is dormant or growing, especially with tuberous aroids that experience a pronounced dry season in nature. I like to say that if you can master watering (to your own needs) then you have mastered half of horticultural practice. There is probably an ideal moisture level for the dormant tubers of any given species but there is also a considerable margin of error for us growers. Sauromatum can grow here outdoors in gardens with winter rainfall when it is dormant (and in St. Louis for that matter); conversely plants like Amorphophallus gigas or A. titanum can suffer if the soil gets so dry that the perennial roots die back. Perennial roots are often a good indication that a plant receives or is adapted to off season rainfall (or watering). Some tuberous aroids have them while others do not. I hope this helps. Dylan On 14 December 2011 07:15, D. Christopher Rogers wrote: Hiyer, Dylan! What are your local humidity levels? It seems that the more humid you are, the harder time one will have keeping the soil in the pots dry. Christopher On Mon, Dec 12, 2011 at 6:38 PM, Hannon wrote: Dear Marek, The best protection for dormant tubers is the soil that surrounded them in the growing season. It acts like a perfect cocoon. A tuber will have greater exposure to pests and desiccation if taken out of its soil. The idea of unearthing bulbs and tubers after the growth period persists in many hobbyist circles and I believe it is the wrong approach in most cases. 1. Attentive culture should result in no pests in the soil at all. Such pests should be evident in the growing season and treated then, especially root mealy. When withered leaves are removed I push some soil into the hole left by the petiole to prohibit entry by ants, mealies, etc. When the soil dries out as the leaves yellow there should be no moisture at all at the bottom of the pot. "Dry soil" is not as dry as you might think and will retain some beneficial moisture for months while the plant is dormant. (This can be demonstrated by allowing a few small weeds to stay in the pot and observing them 5, 10 or 15 weeks later after zero watering). When they have had a good season (in plastic pots) aroid tubers/corms will often distend the pot so that it is firm and compact; this 'package' is the ideal state for storage over winter (or summer). 2. At the beginning of the season I wait for new shoots to emerge and repot then, when the plant is active. If they are slow to wake up I will water well just ONCE and see what happens. If nothing happens after a few weeks then I unpot and look for signs of trouble. Unless the new roots are well along (with secondary branching) it is easy to transplant a plant starting its growth. In fact, I often wait until a leaf is formed and then shift to the appropriate next size pot. Usually this does not involve disturbing the root ball at all. Note: some geophytes like amorphos and their kin seem to need repotting every 1-2 years while others (including Biarum) can go on for a number of years before new soil is needed. Keep in mind that any soil mix used by a plant that is dormant half the year is only on duty for about six months. Any soil mix that is exhausted in six months is hardly worthy of the name. The addition of coarse sand helps the longevity of a mix substantially. It can be difficult to gauge the need of a plant for a particular pot size until it is in full growth and it is impossible to know the vigor of a plant until it is growing. Vigor-- not necessarily tuber size-- determines pot size as well as watering needs and the two are closely related. I prefer a smaller pot that needs more frequent watering rather than a relatively large pot that takes too long to dry out. Soil in a container that takes weeks rather than days to dry and justify the next watering is a sign that the pot is too large for the root system. It is important to let the soil surface go very dry between waterings, assuming everything else is in order. I grow over 70 amorpho species and hundreds of other geophytes in 'cramped quarters' and these techniques has been successful to date. Dylan Hannon On 12 December 2011 11:02, Marek Argent wrote: Dear Hannon, I keep all tubers dry when they're dormant, even I dont water them until the new bud grows enough large to break. As for the soil - should the tubers stay in the old soil during the dormancy or should I change it as the roots wither or when it starts to grow again? In all the methods there are good and bad things. 1. Leaving the tuber in the old soil means leaving it with all pests and the soil itself often remains wet too long at the bottom of the pot what may cause rotting. Next season the tuber can start to grow too early and repotting it while producing new roots may be fatal. 2. Repotting it shortly after the leaves wither - the new soil left dry for a few months loses its moisture and structure, it turns into dust and sand. So when is the best time to change soil in pots? Marek ----- Original Message ----- From: Hannon To: Discussion of aroids Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2011 3:46 AM Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Cultivation of Taccarum Agreed that keeping it in its pot when dormant is a good idea, as with all geophytes. But Taccarum should be kept DRY when dormant. This is true for probably most but not all tuberous aroids. On 9 December 2011 05:53, wrote: Your problem is taking it out of the soil, it needs to be kept in the pot and moist at all times, also needs to be outside not in a window. In a message dated 12/7/2011 11:47:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, abri1973@wp.pl writes: Hello, I've had Taccarum weddellianum since 2005, every year it produces a leaf and usually a "baby" tuber. But... it doesn't grow in size almost at all, although the tuber very slowly increases, the leaf is 20-30 cm tall every year. I use regular pot soil, and the plant is fertilized with natural biohumus. It grows in a southern window. When it's dormant I store it without soil in the normal room temperature. What do I do wrong? What should I do to make it grow larger? Here are photos of my plant: http://abrimaal.pro-e.pl/araceum/taccarum/weddellianum.htm Please help, Marek _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _____ _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l _____ No virus found in the message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2102/4076 - Release Date: 12/12/11 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- D. Christopher Rogers ((,///////////=======< 785.864.1714 Crustacean Taxonomist and Ecologist Kansas Biological Survey Kansas University, Higuchi Hall 2101 Constant Avenue, Lawrence, KS 66047-3759 USA http://www.kbs.ku.edu/ http://www.kbs.ku.edu/directory/d-christopher-rogers/ Associate Editor, Journal of Crustacean Biology http://www.thecrustaceansociety.org/ Vice President, Southwest Association of Freshwater Invertebrate Taxonomists SAFIT.ORG _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to it's culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l -- "The greatest service which can be rendered any country is to add an useful plant to its culture" - Thomas Jefferson Memorandum of Services to My Country, after 2 September 1800 ------=_NextPart_000_0030_01CCBF1F.51853EC0 _______________________________________________ Aroid-L mailing list Aroid-L@www.gizmoworks.com http://www.gizmoworks.com/mailman/listinfo/aroid-l --==============S78388922762026356==--

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