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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Phosphorus misc.
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From: "Kathy Kempf" wont_read101 at hotmail.com> on 2002.05.06 at 02:54:51(8726)
Celeste,
I was interested to read about the reaction of these to phosphorus; maybe
that explains why mine multiply out of all reason. My soil has repeatedly
tested way off the charts for phosphorus levels. I have learned to only add
pure nitrogen and potassium when I add fertilizer; my P level is almost to
the toxic levels. But boy you should see how all my bulbs multiply.
Daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, etc. all so fast that they literally push each
other out of the soil within 2 years. Same with callas and garlic and
onions and... But so far no sign that it is removing any of the enormous
amount of phosphorus in the soil (I have my soil tested in a lab
periodically). And I am sure that explains why I cannot grow any Australian
plants I have tried. Anybody know if any aroids have this problem --
intolerence to P? How about soil pH? My native soil is 8.5-9 In heavily
amended gardens I can keep it to about 7-7.5 And no, I don't live in the
desert southwest anymore. Just an enormous crop of limestone in our
immediate neighborhood from glaciers.
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>From: "Celeste Whitlow"
>Reply-To: aroid-l@mobot.org
>To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L
>Subject: Re: Zantedeschia availability??
>Date: Sun, 5 May 2002 00:21:58 -0500 (CDT)
>
>I just looked on Google to see what the heck a Zantedeschia looks like.
>Surely you are not talking about the calla? It is invasive here. In fact,
>if you make the mistake of not pasteurizing (or discarding) media from a
>pot
>that once grew calla lilies, and if you attempt to reuse the media, you
>will
>have them coming up in whatever you put the media in. Even pasteurizing
>doesn't kill the larger tubers but, hopefully, you will have screened your
>media first to get those out.
>
>The ones that are the worst are the common white ones. Hopefully the more
>beautifully colored ones are not so ninja.
>
>In my experience, you cannot give them too much water, but they tolerate
>clay soil just fine, even in a pot, so keeping water on them is usually not
>a problem. Don't give them good media with good aeration because it will
>just encourage them.
>
>In my experience, they are phosphorous 'ho's, however. I made the mistake
>of
>giving them some "bloom-booster" type high-phosphorus fertilizer once and
>the blooms were out of this world, but mama-mia! it seems to have
>encouraged
>tuber production like you would not believe.
>
>If anybody wants any tubers from the common white calla, give me a holler,
>and let me know how many pounds you want.
>
>--Celeste
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Julius Boos"
>To: "Multiple recipients of list AROID-L"
>Sent: Saturday, May 04, 2002 1:13 PM
>Subject: Re: Zantedeschia availability??
>
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L
> > Sent: Thursday, May 02, 2002 11:41 AM
> > Subject: Re: Zantedeschia availability??
> >
> >
> > Thanks, Geoffrey!
> >
> > It will be a help when I obtain some for my friend!
> >
> > Julius
> >
> > Julius,
> >
> > My experience is that most of the cultivars of Z. aethiopica will love
>it
> > wet
> > and warm. It is often grown standing permanently in water in botanic
>gardens
> > here and the only problem I would forsee is that it grows VERY fast
>under
>
> > such conditions. There are of course both short and tall cultivars (up
>to
> > 5-6
> > ft is not unusual), the shorter clones tending to have much more open,
> > flatter spathes ie. Z. aethiopica 'crowbrough'. I prefer the taller
>forms
> > which have beautiful tall, often tightly furled spathes.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Geoffrey Kibby
> > London
> >
> >
> >
>
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