Re: How to Handle Berries of Pearl Anthurium

From: George Yao gcyao at netasia.net> on 2000.02.06 at 17:37:04(4061) Hi Robert and everyone, It's my turn to be sorry for the delay. I had just finished wrapping up a garden show and had to catch up on so many things that it's only now that I can catch up on my email. Thanks to all those who responded to my request for help: Dr. Tom Croat, Harry Graham, Michael Pascall, Tsuh Yang Chen, Julius Boos, and, of course, Robert Arias. Since I did not have much time to do things right, I just sprinkled the cleaned seeds on a piece of moist tissue paper placed inside a transluscent plastic lunch box. They germinated within the week. I didn't count, but it looks like almost 100% germinated. Now they are about 1/2" high. I'm wondering when I should transplant them and/or feed them. I took a couple of digital photos but I don't know where to put them up for this list. If anyone can tell me how, I will be glad to show the pictures. George Yao +More Metro-Manila, Philippines At 09:57 AM 01/20/2000 -0600, you wrote: >George, > Sorry for taking so long to get your message, I've been away. > I've grown "Pearl Anthurium", Anthurium scandens, from seed many >times with great success. But let me warn you up front, the plants grow >fairly slow and may take as many as three to four years before you will >see the formation of berries on your seedlings. > First, the seeds of this plant will stay viable for weeks if not >removed from the fruit. I have planted seeds that were removed from the >parent for at least two weeks, with almost 100% viability. > The sticky "jelly" need not be removed from the seeds, it seems >that it is neither an asset nor a hinderance to germination. > The seeds will germinate quickly (less then 4 weeks). > I like to use a cell tray that holds many little cells in one >pack. I also like to use Fafard #2 soil (a commercial soil that is very >light weight yet retains a high moisture level once wet) as my medium for >anthuriums. Don't forget to water the soil before and after planting. > The seeds of most anthuriums, in the wild, just grow where they >fall, on the surface of some substrate. Hence the idea of sowing the >seeds on the surface of the soil. But I have found that if you plant the >seeds on the surface of the soil they will develop what reminds one of >prop-roots. This works out well for anthuriums in the wild where leaf >litter is constantly falling. But I have found, through experimentation, >that if the seeds are covered with about an 8th of an inch of soil the >roots will not push the entire plant into the air. The roots will grow >downward and develop a strong system. So plant them a little below the >surface, they will do better. > For A. scandens, I like to plant 5 or so seeds together. The >plants, when planted together, seem to ward off fungi that a single >seedling seems not to be able to defend against. The only down side to >planting seeds together in small cells is that they run out of nutriment >very quickly. So once the majority of the seeds have sprouted you should >start to fertilize right away. After the seed are planted, the tray is >covered and the waiting begins. > Once the seeds are up, write again and I'll try to help you along >the way. > Good Luck! > >Robert Arias >Tampa, FL

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