The worry is, of course, did I miss an opening? Will they find a
weakness where they can easily chew a new one? My desire was/is to use
the electronic repellers to drive them away before they've had time to
explore their options!
It don't mind baits and traps. Dead mice don't bother me; it's the live
ones that bother me! In fact, I've found that gluing the all-weather
baits to a piece of wood is the best idea, otherwise they will tend to
drag them away to where the baits may be less effective and I can't
monitor their consumption.
I'll keep the two repellers (inside the headhouse and in the little shed
behind it) in place. I may not even know if they're effective or not
unless damage becomes evident by spring or summer. But I have a "control
group" that's easier to monitor. There's a second shed, about 10' x 12'
whose indoor eaves were home to gray and/or red squirrels last winter. I
put another repeller in there along with weatherproof baits. I can
monitor those baits and I will see if the rodentia build their winter
nests in the eaves again. Last winter during a heavy feeding week the
varmints would consume three baits in two or three days.
I guess I'm lucky to have electricity in all of my outbuildings. As the
season progresses I'll let the group know the results. Since I bought
the repellers are Lowe's I guess I have 90 days to return them if they
don't work. I'll know by then if they're effective in the shed.
-Ken
michael kolaczewski wrote:
> Greetings Ken, and other forum members,
> In addition to gardening and propagating plants for many years, I was
> at one time
> involved in structural pest control. These devices really do not
> provide any pest
> deterrence. Mice, as many of you know, are problem pests in
> greenhouses, homes, and other
> structures. If you can slide a #2 pencil under a gap or a door, or
> even under a baseboard, they can get in.
> In the matter of mouse biology, in particular, the house mouse, the
> males also contaminate
> many things with their urine, by their marking activity. The urine
> also contains pheromones,
> Which they use to attract females and to deter rivals, from entering
> their territory.
> So obviously, once a number of individuals begin to enter into a
> structure, and take up residence,
> you can have quite an infestation.
> You can use a rodent bait or glue boards, which some people find
> unpleasant, as control
> methods. There are also the so called, catch all traps, metal devices
> which capture the mice.
> If there are only a few rodents, the traditional little snap trap
> works well. Once again I realize some people
> will find this unpleasant.
> These items should used along the perimeter of the walls and where
> they will not be contacted by children and pets.
> Another step, is to secure all cracks, crevices, and gaps around the
> structure. Using Silicone
> chalk will help a great deal. You can also use steel wool in the gaps.
> If use the wool and the chalk together,
> be sure that you have a "smooth" seal. Don't let the wool protrude out
> of the chalk.
> In some cases, using a strip of metal over a gap or door bottom, or
> even around structure base /
> foundation, will provide another level of deterrence.
> I have lost various bulbs, and many, many flats of seedlings and
> plants to pests.
> I do whatever is needed to get rid of them.
> Sorry for the long posting, I hope this information will be of use to
> you all.
> Best regards,
> Michael Kolaczewski
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