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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
[Aroid-l] Infra red cameras/bloom openings
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From: Chris.Rennie at blueyonder.co.uk (Chris) on 2008.05.28 at 09:55:26(17634)
Hi Julius,
Thanks very much for your email and yes of course I'll be delighted to
keep you all informed of my findings!
Altogether there are six inflorescences, two of which have flowered and
are now completely shut. My philo consists of a main stem on the top of
which, are four of the largest inflorescences (two now flowered)
At the base, there are two smaller shoots(?) or possibly separate
plants(?) One of these carries two smaller inflorescences, giving six in
all. The other hasn't produced anything. The philo sits in my
conservatory which is south facing. So the temperature fluctuates
dependant on the amount of sunshine there is in the day. As this is the
U.K. that tends to vary considerably(!) For the past week the weather
has been cloudy & wet. At night during the summer, the conservatory
(being part of the house) is not heated.
When I lived in London, the philo occupied the kitchen (it was a lot
smaller then) it always seemed to shed a couple of leaves in winter and
then grow a couple of new leaves each spring time, so on the whole it
remained the same size, but just grew slightly taller
and became progressively a little more 'spindly' each year. I imagine it
was "pot bound" if that's the correct expression?
When we moved to Gloucester ~ two years ago, I re-potted it into the
very largest pot I could buy from the local garden center. I think this
may have been around springtime?
It sat, I like to imagine, 'in shock' for several months before
exploding with growth and reaching the size it is now. The main stem
thickened in girth considerably above the point I re-potted it. Beneath,
the stem is still relatively 'spindly' and to support it,
I've placed three large bamboo canes around it in tripod fashion..
Without this support, I think the whole plant would start to list over
to one side or worse, fall over altogether.
It's still increasing in size (number of new leaves produced > number of
leaves dropped) and I guess it will only now stop when it becomes "pot
bound" once again or I have to trim it which I'm loathe to do.
A few of the top leaves are already touching the glass roof of the
conservatory. I think it's at least doubled in size, my girlfriend
estimates its probably trebled? - a larger (more alarming) guesstimate
because I suspect she'd rather have the conservatory to sit in...
I've taken some more detailed photographs of it for you, but I'm not
sure how to attach these to this list? So I thought that if it was ok
with you, I'd post your email and this reply together with some pictures
onto the UBC thread?
All the very best,
Chris
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ju-bo at msn.com wrote:
>
> ----------------------------------------
>
>> Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:55:14 +0100
>> From: Chris.Rennie at blueyonder.co.uk
>> To: aroid-l at gizmoworks.com; Steve at ExoticRainforest.com; doji at hawaii.rr.com
>> Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] Infra red cameras
>>
>
> Dear Chris,
>
> Allow me to ''jump into'' this discussion here.
> Unfortunately there is no easy way to know on which given day a Philodendron bloom might open! My experience (and that of people even more experienced growers/breeders than I am) is that only observation and experience can point you in the right direction! I see that you live in the U.K. so must ask how many developing inflorescences are being produced by the plant in question? Usually, at least in tropical areas OR under optimal greenhouse conditions a few blooms in sequence would be considered ''normal'' for say an adult Philodendron bipinnatifidum ("selloum""), which would allow you to closely observe the development and opening of the first, and then you would be able to make a pretty close ''guesstimate'' on when the second, third, etc. may open based on the notes you took on the first. Just a note, here in Florida and Hawaii a bloom may ''sulk'' for a day or two longer that you THINK it should, this may be caused by a change in temperature, rain, etc.
> Concerning pollinating insects, it has been determined that certain scrab beetles under natural conditions and in the natural range of this plant are the primary pollinators. It has been recorded that other beetles and even bees, flies, ants, etc. may be attracted to the blooms, but they can not and do not pollinate them.
> I wish that there were better indicators of exactly when a bloom is about to open, but if in fact there are, I am not aware of them!
> Good Luck, and keep us informed on your findings!
>
> Julius
>
>
>
>> Hi Gary, Steve.
>>
>> My suspicion's raised when the spadix takes ~8 hours or so to move into
>> a position (which appears to be the focal point of the spathe) and
>> *only* then heats up.
>> The interior of the spathe is also coloured white, better to reflect
>> than the green outside of it?
>>
>> The thermal imaging camera I'm now thinking of hiring produces real time
>> images. So it should be easy to move around and see whether the spathe
>> appears brilliantly illuminated from the front.
>> I also want to do another timelapse, but in infra red. I want to see
>> what the whole things looks like as it lights up.
>>
>> Thanks very much for the link. That hack certainly looks interesting.
>> The way I'm now thinking is that I should 'bite the bullet' be done with
>> it and hire a thermal imaging system for three days.
>> Assuming, my other avenues of enquiry prove fruitless. Best quote I've
>> got so far is ?250 which isn't too awful (relatively speaking)
>>
>> Couple of questions:
>>
>> Is it possible that there may be other pollinator insects for this plant?
>> Are there any methods of predicting the flower is going to open the day
>> before it does? (hire company needs advance notice of a day)
>>
>> Steve, I remember you saying it slightly opens up beforehand, but are
>> there any other indicators I could look for as well?
>> (it would be a real pain to hire the camera and then nothing happens!)
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> ChrisR
>>
>> ExoticRainforest wrote:
>>
>>> I know of no inexpensive way to do this so your suggestion is
>>> certainly valid. As for the parabolic reflector, I find that
>>> extremely interesting. I'm now certain infrared plays some role. It
>>> is simply up to the scientists to verify what that role may be since
>>> the actual insects involved will need to be tested. I had only
>>> considered the possiblity the insect could "see" the spadix but the
>>> idea of their seeing the entire spathe is even more interesting.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> *From:* Gary
>>> *To:* Chris.Rennie at blueyonder.co.uk
>>> ; Steve Lucas
>>>
>>> *Sent:* Sunday, May 25, 2008 2:51 PM
>>> *Subject:* Infra red cameras
>>>
>>> Hi Chris and Steve,
>>>
>>> Below is a link to a simple method of hacking an inexpensive video
>>> camera (or a still camera) that would allow at least a cursory
>>> record of the Aroid's heat emission. Steve, as a professional
>>> photographer can correct me if this would not work or a better
>>> method at a reasonable price would be better.
>>>
>>> I think that Chris has hit upon something with his observation
>>> that the spathe acts as a parabolic reflector. If, in fact, the
>>> hacked camera would work, I can think of some test setups that
>>> would be illuminating as well.
>>>
>>> I liked this one because of the chart of brand name cameras he
>>> lists and the procedure to hack them. The author is in
>>> Nottingham. There is also a link at the bottom of the page to
>>> macro photography with a cheap hacked camera that is worth looking
>>> at.
>>>
>>> http://www.hoagieshouse.com/IR/
>>>
>>> Also try: Goggling: hack a video camera to infrared
>>>
>>> Good luck and I hope this proves to be helpful.
>>>
>>> Gary Meltzer in Hilo, Hawaii
>>> doji at hawaii.rr.com
>>>
>>>
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