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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Re: [Aroid-l] help for novice
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From: bonaventure at optonline.net on 2005.10.12 at 05:15:22(13433)
Thanks Ken,
Outside now it is about 60F and has been raining much, on and off, for 4-5 days now. No ill effects on the 7 stalks in their converted pickle tub full of 1 part Pro-mix : 1 part coarse perlite. I am watching very closely. I allow the tuber to dry off completely with all soil removed before hanging it in the shopping bag, and check it at least monthly by completely removing it. So far no excess moisture had formed between the tuber skin and the plastic bag.
Mossambicencis(swynnertonii) just down was emergency unpotted from this same kind of mix but was found to be fine with a large tuber and a medusa-like 7 zigzagging stolon-offsets (reply privately to bonaventure@optonline.net for offsets).
Konjac, yunnanensis, dunnii, and bulbifer in the garden started to collapse before the rains started and ended our long late summer drought here in New Jersey, but I've learned from bad experience that I will have to dig up the bulbifer before winter. Konjac and yunnanensis have bloomed in spring in the garden just before their leaves come up in early summer.
Lewelii and, new this year henryi and corrugatus, are in smaller pots, sitting on the soil under the great paeoniifolius leaves and are being watched closely also for the relative chill affecting their leaves, but so far so good. Plus, I'll have to take the whole pot in as a unit because their roots grew through the drainage holes into the soil of the paeoniifolius pot. These will be stored dry in their respective pots due to the smaller tuber sizes. Only Synandrospadix vermitoxus I have lost to rot resting in a pot of loose dust-dry medium.
Bonaventure
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----- Original Message -----
Date: Sunday, October 9, 2005 1:28 pm
Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] help for novice
> Bonaventure,
>
> I think you're lucky not to have dead Am. paeoniifolius!
>
> Many of us in the northern climates, NJ certainly included, have
> had
> persistent and very serious rot problems with paeoniifolius tubers
> when
> they are allowed to be cold and wet at the same time.
>
> I would absolutely never allow mine to stay outdoors or receive
> any
> water once nighttime temps drop below 60 (at the coldest). Last
> year ago
> I lost every single paeoniifolius except one because of cold/wet
> conditions. At the time I had little option since my greenhouse
> wasn't
> covered until November, but this year the watering of my new ones
> is
> being closely controlled as end-of-season approaches. And they've
> been
> in the greenhouse all season. The more experience I gain growing
> in CT
> the more I find that only a few are suited for outdoor growing
> this far
> north.
>
> One more mention about plastic bags and amorphs: don't do it! I
> don't
> care if they're open or not. The only plastic I'd ever *consider*
> would
> be an onion bag - the mesh kind. I keep all mine only in paper bags.
>
> -Ken Mosher
>
> bonaventure@optonline.net wrote:
> > I drag mine inside just before night temps go in the 30's, cram
> it into a corner of the living room, stop watering, and wait 2
> months for the leaves to die down. Then I wait another 2 months to
> allow the rest of the soil to dry out, after which I unpot, check
> the tuber(s), and then hang them in an open plastic shopping bag
> from a nail on my basement ceiling rafters until I see shoots
> poking out in late May/ early June.
> >
> > Bonaventure Magrys
> > Cliffwood Beach, NJ
> > zone 7
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Marge Talt
> > Date: Saturday, October 8, 2005 4:20 pm
> > Subject: Re: [Aroid-l] help for novice
> >
> >
> >>From: Noel Crisler
> >>should A. Paeonifolius , after dying down, stay in the pot?
> >>
> >>----------
> >>Well, I'm no expert, but have kept mine in it's pot - allowed to go
> >>totally dry; kept inside in normal room temps until spring, when I
> >>repot into a larger pot with fresh media as signs of new growth
> >>become evident. This seems to have worked fine for the 3 years I've
> >>had it.
> >>
> >>Marge Talt, zone 7 Maryland
> >>mtalt@hort.net
> >>Editor: Gardening in Shade, Suite101.com
> >>Shadyside Garden Designs
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>
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