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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Remusatia vivipara
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From: Don Burns <burns at mobot.org> on 1997.03.15 at 02:59:54(503)
R. vivipara started shooting up a petiole last week, and shortly
afterward, even before the leaf emerged, up popped an infloresence. It
apparently opened last night. Bown says this is normal behavior for this
species, although according to her many plants never produce
an infloresence. This afternoon the spathe had totally
withered already with spadix still in place and looking OK. This all
happened very quickly. Has anyone on the list experienced flowering and been
lucky enough to get seed?
Don
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Don Burns Plantation, FL USA Zone 10b
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From: "Mr R.a McClure" <Rob.McClure at sci.monash.edu.au> on 1997.03.17 at 05:03:50(507)
> Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 21:01:05 -0600
> From: Don Burns
> Subject: Remusatia vivipara
> To: rob.mcclure@sci.monash.edu.au
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> Reply-to: aroid-l@mobot.org
> R. vivipara started shooting up a petiole last week, and shortly
> afterward, even before the leaf emerged, up popped an infloresence. It
> apparently opened last night. Bown says this is normal behavior for this
> species, although according to her many plants never produce
> an infloresence. This afternoon the spathe had totally
> withered already with spadix still in place and looking OK. This all
> happened very quickly. Has anyone on the list experienced flowering and been
> lucky enough to get seed?
>
> Don
Don,
My Remusatia viviparias seem to flower every 2nd year or so. The infloresence
appearing before the leaves.I also remember them as having a pleasant
perfume. Within about 2 days the spathe has folded right back and began
withering leaving the spadix looking lonely and decidedly 'rude'.
Mine have never set seed.
It occurs naturally in our northern tropical regions but despite this
I grow it easily outside in Melbourne's temperate climate. It has
proven to be a very handsome and tough aroid.
Perhaps they don't flower often because they produce so many bulbils
on their stems.
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob.McClure
Dept.of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
Monash University, Clayton 3168
AUSTRALIA.
Phone:(03)9905.5625
Fax:(03)9905.5613
e-mail: Rob.McClure@sci.monash.edu.au
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From: Don Burns <burns at mobot.org> on 1998.03.01 at 21:12:13(1930)
R. vivipara has broken dormancy here and appears to be just as vigorous
as last year. One inflorescence has already opened and spathe withered,
and two more inflorescences appear to be in the works. Last year three
appeared also. We also had three leaves last year so hopefully the plant
will produce a repeat performance.
The plant was also particularly prolific in producing the aerial shoots
with the tiny bulblets. While the bulblets have for the most part been
blown about by the wind, the shoots are still alive. Some of the shoots
are vertical while others are circling the container just above the
medium but staying within the container's confines.
I cut off several of these shoots and this is when I noticed that they
are still green and moist inside. Does cutting these affect the plant
in any way? Has anyone tried rooting new plants from these shoots?
Don
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Don Burns Plantation, FL USA Zone 10b
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.06.24 at 19:05:34(10350)
hey all,
last year i received a plant of R. vivipara, which
promptly went dormant (or was dormant when it
arrived). last week, it has resprouted, with several
new leaves. however, the old stems are still there
and i'm wondering if there's any function to them, or
i can remove them. these old stems are dry on the
outside, but when you cut them, they are still green
inside.
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=========
tsuh yang
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From: "Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden" htbg at ilhawaii.net> on 2003.06.24 at 23:51:40(10353)
Here is what Plant Delights Nursery has to say...
This bizarre genus of easy-to-grow aroids usually occurs in the wild as
epiphytes (growing without soil on trees or rocks). Despite this alternate
lifestyle, R. vivipara makes a superb garden plant in the soil as well. In
late spring, the very glossy green leaves emerge, forming a dwarf clump to
2-3' tall. Once the tuber is large enough, the new foliage will be
accompanied by the cool fragrant yellow flowers. In late summer, remusatias
show why they were banished into a separate genus with their bizarre stolons
that arise from the tuber and grow erect to 10" tall. Each stolon is laden
with tiny fuzzy hooked tubercles (bulbils in need of a shave), which can be
used to propagate more plants. In Third World countries, a rub derived from
the tubers is used to treat arthritic pain. If you like unusual plants, this
is a must!
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Scott
> hey all,
>
> last year i received a plant of R. vivipara, which
> promptly went dormant (or was dormant when it
> arrived). last week, it has resprouted, with several
> new leaves. however, the old stems are still there
> and i'm wondering if there's any function to them, or
> i can remove them. these old stems are dry on the
> outside, but when you cut them, they are still green
> inside.
>
>
> =========
> tsuh yang
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>
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From: Harry Witmore harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2003.06.25 at 22:03:52(10355)
---
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.06.27 at 03:21:07(10357)
thanks, scott. actuall, the plant came from them
(tony avent/petra).
the old stems (which are dry on the outside but still
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green inside) did have what looked like those bulbils
but they were not developing and seemed to be drying
out. i ended up cutting them off but the new leaves
are huge...
mahalo.
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tsuh yang
> late summer, remusatias
> show why they were banished into a separate genus
> with their bizarre stolons
> that arise from the tuber and grow erect to 10"
> tall. Each stolon is laden
> with tiny fuzzy hooked tubercles (bulbils in need of
> a shave), which can be
> used to propagate more plants.
__________________________________
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.09.11 at 14:30:58(10568)
hey all,
is this an epiphyte? does it require full sun? any
other cultural requirements?
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thanks.
tsuh yang
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From: "Balistrieri, Carlo" cbalistrieri at nybg.org> on 2003.09.11 at 16:09:32(10569)
Tsuh Yang,
Although a tuberous aroid (with aerial shoots), Deni Bown's book Aroids,
indicates that they have been found growing in trees. Apparently the burred
bulbils catch on mammals and/or birds and are carried far and wide. I grew
it once upon a time and no longer have it. I would treat it like a tuberous
aroid, i.e. pot it up. Use a humusy soil, or epiphyte pot mix, and keep
moist but not soggy--you'll rot the tuber. I wouldn't give it full sun.
Bright shade is a kind of catch all category. Once you have the plant
producing it's bulbils, play with the epiphyte character.
Carlo
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Carlo A. Balistrieri
Curator of the Rock Garden
The New York Botanical Garden
200th Street and Kazimiroff Boulevard
Bronx, NY 10458-5126
United States of America
718.817.8027
718.817.8018 fax
cbalistrieri@nybg.org
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From: Dan Levin levin at pixar.com> on 2003.09.11 at 16:17:37(10570)
tsuh yang,
I must report my Remusatia vivipara plants never read the books
reporting that in nature the plants have epiphytic tendencies.
No doubt they do, but as with so many plants, Rem. vivipara are
quite adaptable to varying cultural conditions. Certainly mine
don't climb out of the pots (or ground) as do Anthuria, e.g.
I'm currently growing 2 vivipara's: one in my GH, in a soil/ epiphyte
mix; and one simply plunked into the ground in poorly amended clay,
just outside the GH. Even if they could or do grow as epiphytes, the
amount of water needed to develop and support those huge leaves
is not trivial.
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RE: light conditions, mine are doing well in both dappled shade
(outside) as well as very bright/ indirect light (greenhouse). Hence
in my experience, full sun is not requisite for growing/ blooming
these plants.
They appreciate/ demand goodly amounts of water and respond
very well to fertilization of all types. I've had great results using a
high organic 4-3-3 (Endo-ROOTS, fine grade).
As a great man once said, "... grow as a Caladium."
I suspect you'll have happier plants.
-Dan
piaba wrote:
> hey all,
>
> is this an epiphyte? does it require full sun? any
> other cultural requirements?
>
> thanks.
>
> tsuh yang
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.10.27 at 18:24:58(10726)
hi all,
i have another question about this plant. does it
have a required rest period every year, or can it grow
year-round with no rest?
tsuh yang
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From: Tony Avent tony at plantdel.com> on 2003.10.27 at 19:23:33(10728)
Dear Tsuh:
Remusatia does seem to have a required rest period. Even when the
vegetative tubercles are planted in fall and kept at 65 degrees F, they
will not sprout until the following June.
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At 10:24 AM 10/27/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>hi all,
>
>i have another question about this plant. does it
>have a required rest period every year, or can it grow
>year-round with no rest?
>
>
>tsuh yang
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears
>http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
>
Tony Avent
Plant Delights Nursery @
Juniper Level Botanic Garden
9241 Sauls Road
Raleigh, NC 27603 USA
Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F
Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F
USDA Hardiness Zone 7b
email tony@plantdelights.com
website http://www.plantdel.com
phone 919 772-4794
fax 919 772-4752
"I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least
three times" - Avent
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.10.27 at 19:35:54(10731)
tony, thanks for the reply. as a matter of fact, it's
your plant that i have... it's getting a bit yellow
so i wasn't sure if it's suffering or just going
dormant naturally. it sprouted this spring or early
summer and it's been in growth since.
tsuh yang chen
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--- Tony Avent wrote:
> Dear Tsuh:
>
> Remusatia does seem to have a required rest period.
> Even when the
> vegetative tubercles are planted in fall and kept at
> 65 degrees F, they
> will not sprout until the following June.
>
> At 10:24 AM 10/27/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >hi all,
> >
> >i have another question about this plant. does it
> >have a required rest period every year, or can it
> grow
> >year-round with no rest?
> >
> >
> >tsuh yang
__________________________________
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From: Krzysztof Kozminski kk at kozminski.com> on 2003.10.28 at 04:26:29(10735)
On Monday, October 27, 2003, at 11:23 AM, Tony Avent wrote:
Dear Tsuh:
Remusatia does seem to have a required rest period. Even when the
vegetative tubercles are planted in fall and kept at 65 degrees F, they
will not sprout until the following June.
I beg to differ. I had them planted in December, kept at 75-80 F, and
by June they grew into quite significant plants. Chilling them down to
65 F might have arrested any development.
Tubers, on the other hand, go dormant.
KK
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From: Tony Avent tony at plantdel.com> on 2003.10.28 at 13:18:42(10739)
Krzysztof:
Very interesting on the temp. required to keep Remusatia vivipara growing
75 degrees F vs. 65 degrees F. Is this also true of the plant at those
temps, or does it go dormant for you anyway?
Tony Avent
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Plant Delights Nursery @
Juniper Level Botanic Garden
9241 Sauls Road
Raleigh, NC 27603 USA
Minimum Winter Temps 0-5 F
Maximum Summer Temps 95-105F
USDA Hardiness Zone 7b
email tony@plantdelights.com
website http://www.plantdel.com
phone 919 772-4794
fax 919 772-4752
"I consider every plant hardy until I have killed it myself...at least
three times" - Avent
|
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From: Krzysztof Kozminski kk at kozminski.com> on 2003.10.29 at 04:28:03(10750)
On Tuesday, October 28, 2003, at 05:18 AM, Tony Avent wrote:
Krzysztof:
Very interesting on the temp. required to keep Remusatia vivipara
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growing
75 degrees F vs. 65 degrees F. Is this also true of the plant at those
temps, or does it go dormant for you anyway?
No, the mature plants always went dormant, but I did not pay attention
to the temperature. It's the bulbils/tubercles that had no problem
sprouting leaves. I know for sure that I planted them in December and
kept warm since this is what was recommended on the seed envelope from
Chiltern.
KK
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From: piaba piabinha at yahoo.com> on 2003.10.29 at 15:38:38(10754)
krzysztof,
when do your adult plants go dormant? winter?
tsuh yang
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--- Krzysztof Kozminski wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, October 28, 2003, at 05:18 AM, Tony
> Avent wrote:
>
> > Krzysztof:
> >
> > Very interesting on the temp. required to keep
> Remusatia vivipara
> > growing
> > 75 degrees F vs. 65 degrees F. Is this also true
> of the plant at those
> > temps, or does it go dormant for you anyway?
>
> No, the mature plants always went dormant, but I did
> not pay attention
> to the temperature. It's the bulbils/tubercles that
> had no problem
> sprouting leaves. I know for sure that I planted
> them in December and
> kept warm since this is what was recommended on the
> seed envelope from
> Chiltern.
>
> KK
>
__________________________________
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From: Harry Witmore <harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2004.02.08 at 19:53:06(11114)
My Remusatia vivipara is in bloom. It's been dormant in a 65 degree
greenhouse and has decided to bloom this year. First time.
http://www.cloudjungle.dns2go.com/Epiphytes/PlantsByCat.asp?xml=epiphytes.xml&xsl=search.xsl&Family=Araceae&Genus=Remusatia
Harry Witmore
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Zone 7 NC
Cloud Jungle Art
Epiphytes.Org
Cloud Jungle ePiphytes
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