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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Pholodendron rot problem
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From: "Chris Greene" <CGREENE at mail.indyzoo.com> on 1997.11.13 at 23:08:01(1612)
HELP! My name is Chris Greene with the Indianapolis Zoo Hort. Dept.
specializing in tropical plants. Recently,in our Amazonian exhibit
I discovered our largest wild collected Philodendron broken off at
the tip.On examining it further,I discovered a case of stem rot.
I cut the stem back to healthy tissue(whew,what a rotten smell!)
and left it on exhibit.I tried to save the tip but it rotted off.
2-3 weeks later I decided to remove it from exhibit because it was
still rotting down the length of the stem.Now, 2 months later,it's
been in our gh and its still rotting on the inside of the stem.
(the stem is 4" in diameter and about 2' long) Today I discovered
a new bud right above the rotting stem but when removing the rotting
stem I lost the bud. I have to cut back the stem about 2-6'' every
2-3 weeks to prevent it from spreading down the stem. I've tried
drenching w/Phyton & Benlate,I've even tried dipping the tip cutting
in sulfur, but no luck. I am desparate to save this plant as it's one
of our nicest,wild collected plants from Peru.After cutting back the
stem to healthy tissue the stem dries but still rots.The stem turns
to mush and smells horribly.Is there hope or is this a dumpster
plant? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Chris Greene (cgreene@mail.indyzoo.com)
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From: Rand Nicholson <writserv at nbnet.nb.ca> on 1997.11.13 at 23:49:56(1613)
>HELP! My name is Chris Greene with the Indianapolis Zoo Hort. Dept.
>specializing in tropical plants. Recently,in our Amazonian exhibit
>I discovered our largest wild collected Philodendron broken off at
>the tip.On examining it further,I discovered a case of stem rot.
>I cut the stem back to healthy tissue(whew,what a rotten smell!)
>and left it on exhibit.I tried to save the tip but it rotted off.
(Snip)
>2-3 weeks to prevent it from spreading down the stem. I've tried
>drenching w/Phyton & Benlate,I've even tried dipping the tip cutting
>in sulfur, but no luck. I am desparate to save this plant as it's one
>of our nicest,wild collected plants from Peru.After cutting back the
>stem to healthy tissue the stem dries but still rots.The stem turns
>to mush and smells horribly.Is there hope or is this a dumpster
>plant? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks,Chris Greene (cgreene@mail.indyzoo.com)
If you have a virus, burn it.
Isolate the plant after cutting it back hard.
Try drying the thing out until the leaves droop and the "rot" stops, or
does not.
Take a cutting that includes the part that shows disease, with at least two
nodes. Clean your knife with, and cut and dip the later in peroxide. Expose
to the air to dry (away from the rest of your plants) and then cut to the
next node and try to root in a barely moist sterile medium. Try the sulphur
again.
Ask Dewey, who might actually know what he is talking about.
Kind Regards,
Rand
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Rand Nicholson
New Brunswick
Maritime Canada, Z 5b
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From: plantnut at shadow.net (Dewey Fisk) on 1997.11.14 at 05:58:10(1614)
>Ask Dewey, who might actually know what he is talking about.
Gee, Rand... Thanks a lot!
I have the "Florida Plant Disease Control Guide" and if some one can ID the
cause of the rot from the description that Chris gave, I will be happy to
look it up.
This is one problem that I have not had. When I have something similar to
this, I cut far below the obvious rot, rub the cut area with Captan and
soak the roots in a combination of Subdue and Phyton 27 for at least 1/2
hour, sometimes overnight. Since Aliette is other systemic, you might try
soaking the roots again the next day... after the first solution has had
time to go into the plant.
One of the first things I would do is unpot and check the roots. If any
are damaged, cut them. Wash off the potting media with a strong flow from
a hose, soak and start all over again with new potting media.
The above mentioned book states: For Stem, Crown and Root
rots..(Rhizoctonia, Fusarium, Botrytis and Sclerotinia...... Use
"thiophanate methyl"... Commercial trade names.... Cleary 3336 (50% WP,
42% F), Fungo Flo (46.2%), Fungo 85WP, Domain FL (46.2$) and SysTec 1998
(46.2%)
I hope this helps and that my reputation is intact....
Dewey
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Dewey E. Fisk, Plant Nut
THE PHILODENDRON PHREAQUE
Your Source for Tropical Araceae
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From: plantnut at shadow.net (Dewey Fisk) on 1997.11.14 at 06:04:44(1615)
I just talked with my Fungicide Guru. His comments are that it could be
phytophthora with erwinia as a secondary infection. If it is, soaking in
Aliette or Subdue would help... BUT, do not mix the two...
The best advice, he says, is to get a pathology laboratory to look at a
section of the root and or the stem. One of the best labs. is at Purdue U.
But, any lab could check this for you and recommend a cure...
Dewey
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Dewey E. Fisk, Plant Nut
THE PHILODENDRON PHREAQUE
Your Source for Tropical Araceae
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From: Rand Nicholson <writserv at nbnet.nb.ca> on 1997.11.14 at 15:08:01(1616)
>>Ask Dewey, who might actually know what he is talking about.
>
>Gee, Rand... Thanks a lot!
You are welcome, Dewey! (runrunrun)
As I was (obviously) swinging in the wind with this one, I thought that
passing it on to someone with your experience would make me look good.
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>I have the "Florida Plant Disease Control Guide" and if some one can ID the
>cause of the rot from the description that Chris gave, I will be happy to
>look it up.
>
>This is one problem that I have not had.
(Snip)
>I hope this helps and that my reputation is intact....
>Dewey
You are still Aces in Canada, Dewey. Talk to you after the glaciers recede.
Rand
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