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This is a continuously updated archive of the Aroid-L mailing list in a forum format - not an actual Forum. If you want to post, you will still need to register for the Aroid-L mailing list and send your postings by e-mail for moderation in the normal way.
Cultivation of Anthurium Warocqueanum ?
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From: "Harold Beck" <drewbeck at swbell.net> on 2004.03.24 at 21:05:37(11331)
I have been working with the growing of the Anthurium warocqueanum and A. veitchii for a while - and have had reasonably good luck establishing an acceptable greenhouse environment here in the Houston area (so far). I have a number of plants to work with (thanks to many of you) and have had good new growth after the acclimation period. But I do have a persistent anomaly that I am hoping that some of you experienced growers might be able to help me with. The warocq's develop nice new sizable leaves pretty consistently - but frequently as the new leaf "unfurls" - or "opens" there is a significant weakness in small areas of leaf tissue between the veins - and this weakness develops into a translucent spot that soon develops into a complete perforation - sometimes quite small 2 to 4 mm in diameter - and of course the result is a permanent "blemish" -- and on a few occasions the fault in the new growth is near the main rib and after "opening', the new leaf has a major deformat
ion.
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And now my question is what causes this problem - which has been pretty consistent over the past few months ?? Might it be a nutrition deficiency - a watering problem - a greenhouse environment problem like humidity or temperature range/variation or what ??
The problem is only associated with the warocq.'s - the veitchii's new growth (in the same environment) has been excellent with numerous nice large perfect leaves - very rewarding !!
I understand that diagnosis via e-mail is very difficult - especially with so many variables - but I was thinking that some of you may have had similar experiences -- and if so your help and advise will be greatly appreciated !! This experience has been most frustrating - since success has been so close but yet so far !
Many thanks, Harold Beck
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From: "Petra Schmidt" <petra at plantdelights.com> on 2004.03.30 at 23:00:31(11341)
Hello Harold,
We used to call this "dry birth", forgive the graffic description...I saw it
on other anthuriums that I used to grow at MoBot years ago and know the
condition you've described is common among anthurium growers. High constant
humidity, especially at the crown of the plant (with good air circulation)
helps keep the cataphylls moist and the newest leaf soft and succulent for
its emergence into the cruel cold world of the greenhouse.
AnthuraSelecties in the Netherlands are wonderful growers of anthurium (also
Eucagenera in Ecuador) so maybe check out their web sites or email them for
suggestions.
On the other hand, if the "spot" is a result of a fungal problem, send a
leaf sample to your state agriculture agency and they can test it. Keep us
posted, ok?
Petra
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----- Original Message -----
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 4:05 PM
Subject: [aroid-l] Cultivation of Anthurium Warocqueanum ?
I have been working with the growing of the Anthurium warocqueanum and A.
veitchii for a while - and have had reasonably good luck establishing an
acceptable greenhouse environment here in the Houston area (so far). I have
a number of plants to work with (thanks to many of you) and have had good
new growth after the acclimation period. But I do have a persistent anomaly
that I am hoping that some of you experienced growers might be able to help
me with. The warocq's develop nice new sizable leaves pretty consistently -
but frequently as the new leaf "unfurls" - or "opens" there is a significant
weakness in small areas of leaf tissue between the veins - and this weakness
develops into a translucent spot that soon develops into a complete
perforation - sometimes quite small 2 to 4 mm in diameter - and of course
the result is a permanent "blemish" -- and on a few occasions the fault in
the new growth is near the main rib and after "opening', the new leaf has a
major deformation.
And now my question is what causes this problem - which has been pretty
consistent over the past few months ?? Might it be a nutrition deficiency -
a watering problem - a greenhouse environment problem like humidity or
temperature range/variation or what ??
The problem is only associated with the warocq.'s - the veitchii's new
growth (in the same environment) has been excellent with numerous nice large
perfect leaves - very rewarding !!
I understand that diagnosis via e-mail is very difficult - especially with
so many variables - but I was thinking that some of you may have had similar
experiences -- and if so your help and advise will be greatly appreciated !!
This experience has been most frustrating - since success has been so close
but yet so far !
Many thanks, Harold Beck
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From: Dan Levin <levin at pixar.com> on 2004.03.31 at 01:56:02(11342)
Dear Petra (and Harold),
Indeed, low humidity or even inconsistent humidity can
spoil a developing leaf in record time. A few other causal
agents one might check for (i.e. things or events which have
induced similar damage in my experience):
- Water trapped in the still folded leaf; could induce fungal/
bacterial rot. [avoid misting/ watering late in the day, treat
prophylactically with Dithane M-45 (manganese + zinc, leaves
a residue) or with Phyton-27 (copper chelate- no residue)]
- Contact with other plants, leaves or objects; I've observed
deformations if a developing leaf rubs against or even just
touches another object- spiny bromeliads especially! [keep
new leaf isolated, at least until hardened]
- Excessive air movement; can sever a primary leaf vein which
may result in a tear or perforation [keep developing leaves away
from fans] By the way, this applies even more so to the output
air stream from a forced air furnace/ heater.
- Slugs; as Obi Wan Kenobi once said, "Never underestimate
the dark side of the force...". In truth, he was referring to evil
gastropods- but popular culture misinterpreted his statement.
[you may not see a slime trail & still be plagued... check at night
with a strong flashlight & see what's lurking. I've never had good
luck using only baits in my greenhouse; best is a combination
of baiting and hand elimination inside the greenhouse- and a
dedicated regimen of baiting around the outside perimeter/ points
of entry]
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- Fertilizing with a high urea nitrogen; typically affects leaf edges
first- turning them yellow prior to necrosis- but sometimes manifests
as an interior legion [flush with low TDS water, change your N
source and/or reduce your feed concentration]
- Lastly, are you keeping your temperatures somewhat moderated?
As, I'm sure you know- Anth. warocq. hails from higher altitudes
and does best when kept below 90 º F (optimal in my experience is
approx. 80+ º during the day, dropping to 68 º or a bit lower at night).
---
I hope that between Petra's wonderful note & some of the above
observations you're soon growing perfect meter long warocq. leaves.
-Dan
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