Artificial Trees

From: Adam Black epiphyte1 at earthlink.net> on 2003.01.07 at 05:06:12(9765) Hi Harry, I made mine based on how Fairchild has theirs constructed- with pieces of corkbark affixed to an armature. Theirs is shaped like a tree (branches coming out of a trunk), but mine are just more or less hanging horizontal branches that are forked and bent into natural shapes. I make them long enough so they span the width of my greenhouse, all going in different directions so they criss-cross, weave over and under, etc. I don't have an artificial "trunk" holding these branches up. They are constructed out of thick heavy PVC pipe with joints and "T"s used to give a natural shape, which cork bark rounds and curved slabs covering the pipe. The whole branch is therefore hollow, and I run a length of cable through it and hang it from the greenhouse frame. I make sure to leave some gaps between the cork panels, as these are good sites to fit plants in, while other epiphytes can be wrapped on with fishing line, glued on (Tillandsias), or even nailed on (larger stoloniferous bromeliads). Use some sphagnum moss around plant root that you wrap with line and keep it damp to give them a good start. After adding in the specimen plants, I always like to cover the remaining bare areas with other creeping or spreading "filler plants", such as small Peperomias, Dischidias, mosses, ferns, small orchids, etc. for a more natural look. After a while, you will not even see the joints between the cork panels, and various other plants will grow up and cover the cables, and vining types can be encouraged to spread from branch to branch. Together with long pendant epiphytes hanging down through several levels of branches, upright epiphytes reaching up through the "canopy", and tall terrestrials growing up through the tangle, this helps tie everything together, and is a much better way to get the full enjoyment of growing tropical plants in a more natural manner than in a pot. It also saves a lot of space in the greenhouse, utilizing the overhead space to its fullest. I also use cypress branches (resistant to rot for quite a while) here and there to get a some variation in branch size, since it is difficult to "create" smaller branches approaching twig proportions. These smaller branches are the best places to put smaller Tillandsias and orchids, as well as drape with spanish "moss" Tillandsia usneoides. Good luck and use your imagination. Adam Black +More P.S.: Harry, I am still interested in trading plants with you - I'll get back to you. Harry Witmore wrote: I just received my Orchids monthly magazine and there is an article on creating an artificial tree in it. I wondered, does anyone on this list have any experience with doing something like this and if so, what process did you use. I have a small (8'wx6'lx12'h) greenhouse that I want to place an epiphyte tree in and would like to make it artificial so it will not rot. Ideas? Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

From: Jonathan Ertelt jonathan.ertelt at vanderbilt.edu> on 2003.01.07 at 07:07:57(9766) At 5:59 PM -0500 1/6/03, Harry Witmore wrote: I just received my Orchids monthly magazine and there is an article on creating an artificial tree in it. I wondered, does anyone on this list have any experience with doing something like this and if so, what process did you use. I have a small (8'wx6'lx12'h) greenhouse that I want to place an epiphyte tree in and would like to make it artificial so it will not rot. Harry, I have worked with a number of different artificial tree structures, the biggest one being 15-18' tall, with seven branches. The base structure for this tree was rebar, with a central core of pieces, and a perimeter of pieces helping to define the diameter of the trunk, a little over three feet at the base. All the branches had rebar going through them which could then be tied onto the trunk framework. What really gave this tree its structural integrity, however, was the polyurethane isocyanate (expandable foam), of a type used to make structures for theatre sets - denser than the expandable foam spray insulation. +More However, this process was much too extensive to be anything I would recommend for a home application. What I might recommend instead, depending on the financial commitment you want to make, perhaps with a couple of other like-minded growers, would be to order a bale of small cork tubes (is Maryland Cork Co. still in business? - that's where I got the bale that I got, but it's been better than ten years ago now). The reason I suggest trying to get a bale of small tubes, roughly 100 pounds of cork, is that when they put the tubes together for a bale, invariably what amounts to some entire branches that have been sectioned up get packaged together. When you take the fastners off the bale and lay all the pieces out, you can fairly quickly see and reassemble some impressive branches, probably a couple that might give you trouble fitting into your greenhouse. Once you have the cork tubes to make the branches, you have to seal them back,using a construction adhesive and tying wire, such that there are no holes or seams in the branches. Fit the branches onto some rebar, use some sturdier wire to suspend the rebar into the center of the cork-tube diameter, then fill the cork-tube branch with the spray insulation expandable foam. The ends and the rebar can be finished with paint or with one of the plastic-dip type products, and you have a wonderful branch/branches that will last for years. I wrote about putting a tree together and the benefits of growing/displaying plants in this way back in '92 for Selbyana, ("Horticultural Aspects of Growing and Displaying a Wide Variety of Epiphytes." Selbyana, 13:95-98), one of very few papers ever published in Selbyana that deals with horticultural aspects of plants. I have worked with using essentially a finished artificial tree and gluing cork pieces onto it, such as folks may have seen done several places. While the initial effect is good, it can be a real high maintenance problem, and I would not recommend going this route. Using cut branches from cypress or from the osage orange (sorry, I don't have the scientific name handy at this desk) will provide you with real branches that will last anywhere from five to fifteen years before rotting, I would guess. Sassafras is another potential good wood for this, and one that does not slough off its bark. I have the feeling that I've gone on long enough for an initial response to the question - if you would like to explore anything that I've suggested further, please get in touch. Jonathan Ertelt

From: "Cooper, Susan L." SLCooper at scj.com> on 2003.01.07 at 13:29:49(9767) Hi Harry, Also try checking the archives, I think there was a lot of discussion on this same subject. Sorry I can't remember when! But I do remember the discussion on having materials that won't rot.... Susan +More on creating an artificial tree in it. I wondered, does anyone on this list have any experience with doing something like this and if so, what process did you use. I have a small (8'wx6'lx12'h) greenhouse that I want to place an epiphyte tree in and would like to make it artificial so it will not rot.

From: Harry Witmore harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2003.01.07 at 23:27:18(9770) Wow, thanks for the responses so far. The article in the Orchids Magazine mentioned the technique of using the expandable foam and then covering it with cork bark. I would like to get a bale of cork. I have found some sources for this in the past but I need to start looking again. I don't have access to cypress but I do have red cedar and it's used around here as fence post. I use it some to mount orchids and other small epiphytes. This sounds like it could be a good on line web story. oh well Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our own environment. Any more ideas on this subject will be grateful. Harry Witmore +More Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

From: "Ron" ronlene at adelphia.net> on 2003.01.08 at 00:27:58(9771) I like PVC plumbing pipe as the frame for the cork. ----- Original Message ----- To: +More Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 6:27 PM Subject: Re: [aroid-l] Artificial Trees > > Wow, thanks for the responses so far. The article in the Orchids Magazine > mentioned the technique of using the expandable foam and then covering it > with cork bark. I would like to get a bale of cork. I have found some > sources for this in the past but I need to start looking again. > > I don't have access to cypress but I do have red cedar and it's used around > here as fence post. I use it some to mount orchids and other small > epiphytes. This sounds like it could be a good on line web story. oh well > Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to > grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, > where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays > would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right > frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our > own environment. > > Any more ideas on this subject will be grateful. > > Harry Witmore > Zone 7 NC > Cloud Jungle Art > Epiphytes.Org > Cloud Jungle ePiphytes > >

From: "Craig Allen" callen at fairchildgarden.org> on 2003.01.08 at 18:13:00(9773) The following note is what I send out to people that ask about the construction of Fairchild Garden's epiphyte display. I have purchased my cork bundles from: OFE International, Inc., 305-253-7080; 12100 S.W. 129th Court, Miami, Florida 33186-6421 Epiphyte tree construction A pipe frame is assembled from 4, 6, and 8 inch PVC irrigation pipe and fittings then covered by a skin of cork bark. At the base of the tree is a concrete anchor with an embedded lag bolt. The tree base is bolted to this foundation and all the 1/4" stainless cable is clamped around the heavy bolt and threaded through the pipe and tied to the overhead beams. The stainless steel cable is actually the support structure, as the PVC is not strong enough to support itself. The PVC pipe frame isn't glued but is screwed together using galvanized screws. I do it this way so that I can rotate the fittings or change the whole structure if the shape turns out to be unconvincing as a tree. The cork bark covering is screwed on with galvanized deck screws, reinforced with steel washers under the screw heads. 'Liquid Nails' construction adhesive is spotted around the pipe to strengthen the corks bond to the frame. The washers spread the pressure on the cork to a wider area so that the screw will not go all the way through the soft cork. If the screws are noticeably visible after construction and planting, a dab of liquid nails and a cork chip covers the exposed metal, or even brown marker. In my original structure, great attention was put to lining up furrows in the cork to help the believability of the branches, but that proved to be a waste of time after the plants were added. After the large cork sections are attached, cut cork pieces are used to fill gaps between large slabs. Small gaps can be filled with cork chips, Osmumda fern fiber, or bits of moss. If a constructed tree is going to be heavily planted many of these small gaps shouldn't be visible any way. The living epiphytic plants were attached using thin aluminum wire as a strap with small deck screws. Wire that is twisted around a screw then snuggly crosses the stem or rhizome and twists around the second screw. As you tightened the screws the wire tightens on the plant, holding most plants. Small plants can be attached with large ungalvanized electrical staples or even glued with the 'Liquid Nails'. Most epiphytes readily attach to cork. I have had problems with cattleya orchids. I am not sure if the problem is an aversion to the cork, or staying too wet. Most show no root attachment to the cork bark. ...As far as how to make it look real... I just did it by intuition, but if you could see under the skin, there is just as much structure made from fittings as pipe. They make a number of fitting with 22% and 45% bends. Used lots of them to make your branches twist. Avoid long straight sections, even though it would lower costs. The fitting (example 8" connector with a 6" side tube at 22% angle) is the most expensive but the most important for looks. 8" for large trunks, down to 4" for smaller branches. Do not cantilever any branches over peoples heads more than 3' with out support. The PVC is not that strong, a heavy epiphyte load is heavy indeed. I can't think of anything else except that after plants are attached all the areas that bother you tend to disappear. If you do a fallen branch as I did, try to keep most of the branches aiming in the same general direction as if it was from one side of the tree. I rearranged my first display when I was 1/2 way through because it wasn't looking natural. Craig M. Allen +More Conservatory Manager Fairchild Tropical Garden 10901 Old Cutler Road Coral Gables (Miami), FL 33156 Telephone: 305.667.1651, ext.3320 Fax: 305.667.6930 Email: callen@fairchildgarden.org Web: www.fairchildgarden.org -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 6:27 PM To: aroid-l@lists.ncsu.edu Subject: Re: [aroid-l] Artificial Trees Wow, thanks for the responses so far. The article in the Orchids Magazine mentioned the technique of using the expandable foam and then covering it with cork bark. I would like to get a bale of cork. I have found some sources for this in the past but I need to start looking again. I don't have access to cypress but I do have red cedar and it's used around here as fence post. I use it some to mount orchids and other small epiphytes. This sounds like it could be a good on line web story. oh well Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our own environment. Any more ideas on this subject will be grateful. Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

From: Harry Witmore harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2003.01.08 at 23:26:32(9775) Thanks Craig, the epiphyte displays at Faichild are exactly what I'm going for. They are very convincing. I will let you all know how it goes when I get started. +More At 01:13 PM 1/8/2003 -0500, you wrote: The following note is what I send out to people that ask about the construction of Fairchild Garden's epiphyte display. I have purchased my cork bundles from: OFE International, Inc., 305-253-7080; 12100 S.W. 129th Court, Miami, Florida 33186-6421 Epiphyte tree construction A pipe frame is assembled from 4, 6, and 8 inch PVC irrigation pipe and fittings then covered by a skin of cork bark. At the base of the tree is a concrete anchor with an embedded lag bolt. The tree base is bolted to this foundation and all the 1/4" stainless cable is clamped around the heavy bolt and threaded through the pipe and tied to the overhead beams. The stainless steel cable is actually the support structure, as the PVC is not strong enough to support itself. The PVC pipe frame isn't glued but is screwed together using galvanized screws. I do it this way so that I can rotate the fittings or change the whole structure if the shape turns out to be unconvincing as a tree. The cork bark covering is screwed on with galvanized deck screws, reinforced with steel washers under the screw heads. 'Liquid Nails' construction adhesive is spotted around the pipe to strengthen the corks bond to the frame. The washers spread the pressure on the cork to a wider area so that the screw will not go all the way through the soft cork. If the screws are noticeably visible after construction and planting, a dab of liquid nails and a cork chip covers the exposed metal, or even brown marker. In my original structure, great attention was put to lining up furrows in the cork to help the believability of the branches, but that proved to be a waste of time after the plants were added. After the large cork sections are attached, cut cork pieces are used to fill gaps between large slabs. Small gaps can be filled with cork chips, Osmumda fern fiber, or bits of moss. If a constructed tree is going to be heavily planted many of these small gaps shouldn't be visible any way. The living epiphytic plants were attached using thin aluminum wire as a strap with small deck screws. Wire that is twisted around a screw then snuggly crosses the stem or rhizome and twists around the second screw. As you tightened the screws the wire tightens on the plant, holding most plants. Small plants can be attached with large ungalvanized electrical staples or even glued with the 'Liquid Nails'. Most epiphytes readily attach to cork. I have had problems with cattleya orchids. I am not sure if the problem is an aversion to the cork, or staying too wet. Most show no root attachment to the cork bark. ...As far as how to make it look real... I just did it by intuition, but if you could see under the skin, there is just as much structure made from fittings as pipe. They make a number of fitting with 22% and 45% bends. Used lots of them to make your branches twist. Avoid long straight sections, even though it would lower costs. The fitting (example 8" connector with a 6" side tube at 22% angle) is the most expensive but the most important for looks. 8" for large trunks, down to 4" for smaller branches. Do not cantilever any branches over peoples heads more than 3' with out support. The PVC is not that strong, a heavy epiphyte load is heavy indeed. I can't think of anything else except that after plants are attached all the areas that bother you tend to disappear. If you do a fallen branch as I did, try to keep most of the branches aiming in the same general direction as if it was from one side of the tree. I rearranged my first display when I was 1/2 way through because it wasn't looking natural. Craig M. Allen Conservatory Manager Fairchild Tropical Garden 10901 Old Cutler Road Coral Gables (Miami), FL 33156 Telephone: 305.667.1651, ext.3320 Fax: 305.667.6930 Email: callen@fairchildgarden.org Web: www.fairchildgarden.org -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 6:27 PM To: aroid-l@lists.ncsu.edu Subject: Re: [aroid-l] Artificial Trees Wow, thanks for the responses so far. The article in the Orchids Magazine mentioned the technique of using the expandable foam and then covering it with cork bark. I would like to get a bale of cork. I have found some sources for this in the past but I need to start looking again. I don't have access to cypress but I do have red cedar and it's used around here as fence post. I use it some to mount orchids and other small epiphytes. This sounds like it could be a good on line web story. oh well Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our own environment. Any more ideas on this subject will be grateful. Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

From: Dan Levin levin at pixar.com> on 2003.01.09 at 00:25:17(9776) One variation on this theme, which I'm currently building in my greenhouse, is the totem on steroids approach. The concept has been discussed here before, I think. Certainly not as compelling or elaborate as an art. tree, but it is significantly simpler (= cheaper) to install and the ultimate result provides similar functionality which doesn't look half bad- and if you squint a bit, looks great. Though I may experiment with mounting non araceous material onto these structures, my primary interest is in providing support for many of my climbing, epiphytic and vining aroids e.g. Anthurium, Cercestis, Philodendron, Rhaphidophora, Syngonium, etc. --- +More I'm pre wrapping lengths of 1-1/2" ABS (black plastic drain pipe) with a good layer of coconut fiber which has been pre-soaked; the fiber then held in place with a tight wrap of nylon twine, coils spaced approx. 2" - 3" (6 cm) apart. These totems are attached to the vertical greenhouse members with rigid plastic drain pipe hangers, which have in turn been bolted to "L" brackets; the totems being variably fixed in place- but stood off from- the side walls. As Craig does with his trees, I'm also using partial radius bends/fittings to help break up the visual monotony (aka telephone pole syndrome) of the vertical pipe. My totems are also following the roof gable angles upwards to the roof peak, at times interconnecting with one another, etc. Strategically placed spray heads keep the coco fiber dampened just enough to encourage root growth, attachment, and when needed can deliver chemigation. Long term my hope is that when the fiber begins to decompose, I can apply new hunks of the stuff in and around the roots without too much difficulty but time will tell (hey, it can't be worse than re-corking a tree). My thanks to all you artificial tree artisans for sharing your advice and recipes; this has been an extremely inspiring discussion! -Dan Harry Witmore wrote: > Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to > grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, > where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays > would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right > frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our > own environment.

From: Dan Levin levin at pixar.com> on 2003.01.09 at 00:26:04(9777) One variation on this theme, which I'm currently building in my greenhouse, is the totem on steroids approach. The concept has been discussed here before, I think. Certainly not as compelling or elaborate as an art. tree, but it is significantly simpler (= cheaper) to install and the ultimate result provides similar functionality which doesn't look half bad- and if you squint a bit, looks great. Though I may experiment with mounting non araceous material onto these structures, my primary interest is in providing support for many of my climbing, epiphytic and vining aroids e.g. Anthurium, Cercestis, Philodendron, Rhaphidophora, Syngonium, etc. --- +More I'm pre wrapping lengths of 1-1/2" ABS (black plastic drain pipe) with a good layer of coconut fiber which has been pre-soaked; the fiber then held in place with a tight wrap of nylon twine, coils spaced approx. 2" - 3" (6 cm) apart. These totems are attached to the vertical greenhouse members with rigid plastic drain pipe hangers, which have in turn been bolted to "L" brackets; the totems being variably fixed in place- but stood off from- the side walls. As Craig does with his trees, I'm also using partial radius bends/fittings to help break up the visual monotony (aka telephone pole syndrome) of the vertical pipe. My totems are also following the roof gable angles upwards to the roof peak, at times interconnecting with one another, etc. Strategically placed spray heads keep the coco fiber dampened just enough to encourage root growth, attachment, and when needed can deliver chemigation. Long term my hope is that when the fiber begins to decompose, I can apply new hunks of the stuff in and around the roots without too much difficulty but time will tell (hey, it can't be worse than re-corking a tree). My thanks to all you artificial tree artisans for sharing your advice and recipes; this has been an extremely inspiring discussion! -Dan Harry Witmore wrote: > Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to > grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, > where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays > would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right > frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our > own environment.

From: Jonathan Ertelt jonathan.ertelt at vanderbilt.edu> on 2003.01.09 at 07:26:17(9786) At 6:26 PM -0500 1/8/03, Harry Witmore wrote: Thanks Craig, the epiphyte displays at Faichild are exactly what I'm going for. They are very convincing. I will let you all know how it goes when I get started. Harry, et al., A couple of points on other responses that I've been reading, and then I think that I will have said all that I need to say and will bow out. +More I, unfortunately, have not been to Fairchild in a good many years, and though Craig was there in the late 80's when I was last there, and it was a pleasure meeting him and being shown around, I don't recall much in the way of artificial trees - not to say that there weren't any - I just have a great memory of some of the particular plant species I was lusting after at the time, and some nice material growing on rockwork instead. Anyhow, two things that Craig's writing prompt me to comment on - the first would have been prompted by several other responses as well. I want to be very clear that the process I was describing previously is "constructing" an artificial tree from the outside in. In some ways, especially in preparation, it perhaps takes more work (arguable), but from the time you've put the pieces of cork together, you know what the finished product is going to look like - a distinct advantage I think. The other, and perhaps even stronger advantage of this method over gluing and screwing cork onto a structure is that there are no hiding places for pests under the bark. The main large tree that I worked with before I started building my own, was the central tree in the rainforest simulation at the National Aquarium in Baltimore. Now admittedly, with this example as well as with several other art. trees and draped walls, I 'm looking at installations where there are animals in the exhibit, and therefore food, but the most frustrating thing for me with the gaps between cork and mounting substrate was the bug problem. Working with mounting bark onto any kind of premade support structure, given the nature of cork, is going to mean using lots of impressively small pieces, or having gaps of moist dark space between bark and substrate. Having seen the results of this in terms of some of the inhabitants of these spaces and the damage they can inflict to new root and shoot growth, I'll avoid this method if I can. I understand that it is the way most art. trees are constructed, and that many people are very satisfied with the results. Just my two cents of input. The other point that I would make may be just as frustrating, but I would say that although I understand Craig's point about the fissures in the bark largely disappearing over time, I meticulously try to match up not only fissures but also, to the extent possible, even the shading of the cork bark tubes that I put together. The two questions/comments that were commonly heard once the tree at UNC Charlotte was completed were how did we get that huge tree into the conservatory, and how did they build that conservatory around the tree without killing it? The tree is some ten plus years old now I guess, and although there are over 100 plants growing on it representing I think somewhere in the twenties the number of different families, there's still a fair amount of the bark visible. And I do think that it's the fissures that are the final fooling point in convincing folks that it might just be a real tree. Even with the three foot long branches I'm working with now, each with a fork in it to provide a planting crotch as well as essentially three stretches of branch to plant on, I stressed with my volunteers who helped me put them together how important "the look" of the bark was to the finished product. And as strange as it may sound, I've even had several different folks involved in the construction work around the greenhouses ask me what those things are that I'm growing that have the yellow labels on the ends (the yellow "labels" are the plastic-painted rebar ends so that I have hanging tabs for the branches, both in the greenhouses and for putting on benches to wheel into classrooms, and I actually haven't gotten any epiphytes mounted onto these "branches" yet, so all these guys are seeing are very convincing unplanted cork bark tubes.) So, for me, while it may be that a year or two after planting you will or won't be able to tell any difference, but I'm very pleased that for alot of "average folks" on the street, even with no planting my branches and trees might as well be alive. Good Growing and good luck raising these artificial structures - regardless of your approach, the outcome of bringing us one step closer to feeling like we're in the tropics, in the rainforest, is good for us and good for our plants. Jonathan

From: "Julius Boos" ju-bo at msn.com> on 2003.01.09 at 09:48:04(9787) Dear Craig, Just a note on behalf of the many whom I`m certain this note will assist, thanks so very much, it took a lot of your time to do this, and it is friends like you that make this list so valuable and interesting! I hope that your Amorphophallus 'giants' and all your other babies are doing well, and am looking forward to your postings and photos on any future bloomings of these wonderfully grown botanical marvels. Good growing! Julius +More >>The following note is what I send out to people that ask about the construction of Fairchild Garden's epiphyte display. I have purchased my cork bundles from: OFE International, Inc., 305-253-7080; 12100 S.W. 129th Court, Miami, Florida 33186-6421 Epiphyte tree construction A pipe frame is assembled from 4, 6, and 8 inch PVC irrigation pipe and fittings then covered by a skin of cork bark. At the base of the tree is a concrete anchor with an embedded lag bolt. The tree base is bolted to this foundation and all the 1/4" stainless cable is clamped around the heavy bolt and threaded through the pipe and tied to the overhead beams. The stainless steel cable is actually the support structure, as the PVC is not strong enough to support itself. The PVC pipe frame isn't glued but is screwed together using galvanized screws. I do it this way so that I can rotate the fittings or change the whole structure if the shape turns out to be unconvincing as a tree. The cork bark covering is screwed on with galvanized deck screws, reinforced with steel washers under the screw heads. 'Liquid Nails' construction adhesive is spotted around the pipe to strengthen the corks bond to the frame. The washers spread the pressure on the cork to a wider area so that the screw will not go all the way through the soft cork. If the screws are noticeably visible after construction and planting, a dab of liquid nails and a cork chip covers the exposed metal, or even brown marker. In my original structure, great attention was put to lining up furrows in the cork to help the believability of the branches, but that proved to be a waste of time after the plants were added. After the large cork sections are attached, cut cork pieces are used to fill gaps between large slabs. Small gaps can be filled with cork chips, Osmumda fern fiber, or bits of moss. If a constructed tree is going to be heavily planted many of these small gaps shouldn't be visible any way. The living epiphytic plants were attached using thin aluminum wire as a strap with small deck screws. Wire that is twisted around a screw then snuggly crosses the stem or rhizome and twists around the second screw. As you tightened the screws the wire tightens on the plant, holding most plants. Small plants can be attached with large ungalvanized electrical staples or even glued with the 'Liquid Nails'. Most epiphytes readily attach to cork. I have had problems with cattleya orchids. I am not sure if the problem is an aversion to the cork, or staying too wet. Most show no root attachment to the cork bark. ...As far as how to make it look real... I just did it by intuition, but if you could see under the skin, there is just as much structure made from fittings as pipe. They make a number of fitting with 22% and 45% bends. Used lots of them to make your branches twist. Avoid long straight sections, even though it would lower costs. The fitting (example 8" connector with a 6" side tube at 22% angle) is the most expensive but the most important for looks. 8" for large trunks, down to 4" for smaller branches. Do not cantilever any branches over peoples heads more than 3' with out support. The PVC is not that strong, a heavy epiphyte load is heavy indeed. I can't think of anything else except that after plants are attached all the areas that bother you tend to disappear. If you do a fallen branch as I did, try to keep most of the branches aiming in the same general direction as if it was from one side of the tree. I rearranged my first display when I was 1/2 way through because it wasn't looking natural. Craig M. Allen Conservatory Manager Fairchild Tropical Garden 10901 Old Cutler Road Coral Gables (Miami), FL 33156 Telephone: 305.667.1651, ext.3320 Fax: 305.667.6930 Email: callen@fairchildgarden.org Web: www.fairchildgarden.org -----Original Message----- Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 6:27 PM To: aroid-l@lists.ncsu.edu Subject: Re: [aroid-l] Artificial Trees Wow, thanks for the responses so far. The article in the Orchids Magazine mentioned the technique of using the expandable foam and then covering it with cork bark. I would like to get a bale of cork. I have found some sources for this in the past but I need to start looking again. I don't have access to cypress but I do have red cedar and it's used around here as fence post. I use it some to mount orchids and other small epiphytes. This sounds like it could be a good on line web story. oh well Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our own environment. Any more ideas on this subject will be grateful. Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

From: "Cooper, Susan L." SLCooper at scj.com> on 2003.01.09 at 13:40:38(9790) Wow, I hope we see some pictures when you and Harry are done! Brian, Is there a picture of your wall on your website, and if so, where? Susan +More One variation on this theme, which I'm currently building in my greenhouse, is the totem on steroids approach. -Dan Harry Witmore wrote: > Brian has a wall, I have a tree, what else are you all dreaming of doing to > grow your plants in an attractive manner and if you are doing it already, > where are the picture. I think a page which shows members plant displays > would stir interest in the plants. Those of us in temperate to down right > frozen areas of the country, need to create the look of the tropics in our > own environment.

From: Harry Witmore harrywitmore at witmore.net> on 2003.01.09 at 23:04:57(9799) Darn Jonathan, I love the tree at UNCC. It is really what has inspired me to get into aroids and reinforced my love for epiphytes. I go there when I can. Are you still located there? I plan to head that way to give the tree a look soon. I'm only live 45 minutes from UNCC. I often call it an undiscovered jewel because people are alway astonished at what I describe there. +More If you are ever in Charlotte it is a must if you are into Aroids or epiphytes in either. At 01:26 AM 1/9/2003 -0600, you wrote: At 6:26 PM -0500 1/8/03, Harry Witmore wrote: Thanks Craig, the epiphyte displays at Faichild are exactly what I'm going for. They are very convincing. I will let you all know how it goes when I get started. Harry, et al., A couple of points on other responses that I've been reading, and then I think that I will have said all that I need to say and will bow out. I, unfortunately, have not been to Fairchild in a good many years, and though Craig was there in the late 80's when I was last there, and it was a pleasure meeting him and being shown around, I don't recall much in the way of artificial trees - not to say that there weren't any - I just have a great memory of some of the particular plant species I was lusting after at the time, and some nice material growing on rockwork instead. Anyhow, two things that Craig's writing prompt me to comment on - the first would have been prompted by several other responses as well. I want to be very clear that the process I was describing previously is "constructing" an artificial tree from the outside in. In some ways, especially in preparation, it perhaps takes more work (arguable), but from the time you've put the pieces of cork together, you know what the finished product is going to look like - a distinct advantage I think. The other, and perhaps even stronger advantage of this method over gluing and screwing cork onto a structure is that there are no hiding places for pests under the bark. The main large tree that I worked with before I started building my own, was the central tree in the rainforest simulation at the National Aquarium in Baltimore. Now admittedly, with this example as well as with several other art. trees and draped walls, I 'm looking at installations where there are animals in the exhibit, and therefore food, but the most frustrating thing for me with the gaps between cork and mounting substrate was the bug problem. Working with mounting bark onto any kind of premade support structure, given the nature of cork, is going to mean using lots of impressively small pieces, or having gaps of moist dark space between bark and substrate. Having seen the results of this in terms of some of the inhabitants of these spaces and the damage they can inflict to new root and shoot growth, I'll avoid this method if I can. I understand that it is the way most art. trees are constructed, and that many people are very satisfied with the results. Just my two cents of input. The other point that I would make may be just as frustrating, but I would say that although I understand Craig's point about the fissures in the bark largely disappearing over time, I meticulously try to match up not only fissures but also, to the extent possible, even the shading of the cork bark tubes that I put together. The two questions/comments that were commonly heard once the tree at UNC Charlotte was completed were how did we get that huge tree into the conservatory, and how did they build that conservatory around the tree without killing it? The tree is some ten plus years old now I guess, and although there are over 100 plants growing on it representing I think somewhere in the twenties the number of different families, there's still a fair amount of the bark visible. And I do think that it's the fissures that are the final fooling point in convincing folks that it might just be a real tree. Even with the three foot long branches I'm working with now, each with a fork in it to provide a planting crotch as well as essentially three stretches of branch to plant on, I stressed with my volunteers who helped me put them together how important "the look" of the bark was to the finished product. And as strange as it may sound, I've even had several different folks involved in the construction work around the greenhouses ask me what those things are that I'm growing that have the yellow labels on the ends (the yellow "labels" are the plastic-painted rebar ends so that I have hanging tabs for the branches, both in the greenhouses and for putting on benches to wheel into classrooms, and I actually haven't gotten any epiphytes mounted onto these "branches" yet, so all these guys are seeing are very convincing unplanted cork bark tubes.) So, for me, while it may be that a year or two after planting you will or won't be able to tell any difference, but I'm very pleased that for alot of "average folks" on the street, even with no planting my branches and trees might as well be alive. Good Growing and good luck raising these artificial structures - regardless of your approach, the outcome of bringing us one step closer to feeling like we're in the tropics, in the rainforest, is good for us and good for our plants. Jonathan Harry Witmore Zone 7 NC Cloud Jungle Art Epiphytes.Org Cloud Jungle ePiphytes

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