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Three questions
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From: Adam Black paleoart at digital.net> on 2001.01.07 at 15:02:53(5819)
Any help with the following questions would be greatly appreciated.
Question 1:
I purchased an young Alocasia last spring that was labeled Alocasia sarian.
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I have also seen mention of this plant as Alocasia "Sarian". Is this a
species, cultivar, variant, hybrid??? Where is it from? Does it form
offsets? Any other information about this plant would be appreciated. I have
it growing in a tub of water, and in ten months it has grown from a foot
high to about five feet high.
Question 2:
I have recently built a greenhouse with pressure-treated wood frame. Will
the pressure treating chemicals that leach out of the wood during irrigation
be at a level that would harm my plants that are in the ground at the base
of the framework? I would also like to encourage Philodendrons and other
vining aroids to climb up the pressure-treated wood posts, but I assume that
their anchoring roots would absorb the harmful chemicals. I remember when I
was a kid in Miami we had Monstera, Syngonium, Epipremnum, and Philodendron
growing up the supports to our deck, but they may not have experienced any
harmful effects due to weathering of the wood with age. Any info or
experiences would be appreciated.
Question 3:
I would like to grow my epiphytes in my greenhouse epiphyticly, and would
like to construct a tree using artificial and or natural materials. I am
hesitant to use natural branches, as I am worried they will rot within a
year or so. In the conservatory at Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Miami, I
liked the way they constructed their bromeliad tree, which consisted of PVC
"branches" covered with sections of cork bark. Since cork bark is
expensive, I am wondering if anyone else has tried any other methods of
displaying and growing epiphytes in a natural looking manner.
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Adam Black
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From: "brian williams" pugturd50 at hotmail.com> on 2001.01.07 at 23:38:08(5822)
Hello Adam this is Brian Willimas. for your first question on Alocasia
Sarian. I have looked up as much as I can on it and it seems no one really
knows what it is. Most think it is a hybrid? I also have never had any
babies form the mother plant. But intertest to here yours is growing in a
tub of water?
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As for the wood in your greenhouse i am also interested to here what people
say about it. The wood in mine is treated. I dont think it would hurt the
plants but who knows.
As for the artificial tree I have a few of them in the plans for my
greenhouse. Here are the ways i have heard to do it. First the fairchild
garden way wich works very well but does coast alot. One way to help say is
put long fiber moss were the plants will be and put a lot of plants on it.
Also cover the parts that will be seen. You could also use a dead tree it
wil rot but can be used for awhile. Also their are the cement trees which
usually wont look right unless the person building them is very talented.
Hope this helps some.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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From: Neil Carroll zzamia at hargray.com> on 2001.01.08 at 03:30:44(5824)
You could also use a dead tree it
>wil rot but can be used for awhile.
If ever to a coastal area in the east......a dead red cedar or cypress would
be very resistant to rot.
the cedar would be of a more branched and managable size though
Neil
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From: Ron McHatton rmchatton at photocircuits.com> on 2001.01.09 at 01:08:36(5827)
Hello, this is Ron McHatton.
As to the question of pressure treated lumber......I have been growing
orchids, aroids, and other stuff for about 35 years in various pressure
treated wood-frame greenhouses without any apparent problem (ones which I
can attribute to the wood). At first, the conventional wisdom was that
roots which came in contact with the wood would die back from chemical
burn. This may be true with wood treated with treatment chemicals like the
ones used for telephone polls. Using wood treated with chrome copper
arsenate (all the pressure-treated wood products available through home
improvement centers and the like) doesn't seem to be a problem. The
treatment chemicals are not volatile and they also don't seem to be
leachable. At least with epiphytic orchids, they will easily root to this
sort of wood and, since I try to grow under cloud forest conditions, I grow
substantial stands of moss on the wood without any apparent problems. I
wouldn't worry about the framing.
Cork oak bark is used for artificial trees because nothing else lasts like
that material. The initial investment is staggering (depending on the size
of the tree obviously) but amortized over time, its fairly reasonable. The
problem with other materials is longevity and the destruction of the root
systems when you have to get the plants off to rebuild. Tree fern has a
life time of about 5 years (and when it goes, it turns rapidly septic),
long-fiber moss in a wire mess frame is a nightmare to refresh the moss as
it breaks down. I have had plants on cork bark for over twenty years and
the bark is still holding up. If you can supply sufficient humidity and
water, you might try cement/
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-----Original Message-----
From: brian williams [SMTP:pugturd50@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 6:38 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L
Subject: Re: Three questions
Hello Adam this is Brian Willimas. for your first question on Alocasia
Sarian. I have looked up as much as I can on it and it seems no one really
knows what it is. Most think it is a hybrid? I also have never had any
babies form the mother plant. But intertest to here yours is growing in a
tub of water?
As for the wood in your greenhouse i am also interested to here what people
say about it. The wood in mine is treated. I dont think it would hurt the
plants but who knows.
As for the artificial tree I have a few of them in the plans for my
greenhouse. Here are the ways i have heard to do it. First the fairchild
garden way wich works very well but does coast alot. One way to help say is
put long fiber moss were the plants will be and put a lot of plants on it.
Also cover the parts that will be seen. You could also use a dead tree it
wil rot but can be used for awhile. Also their are the cement trees which
usually wont look right unless the person building them is very talented.
Hope this helps some.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
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From: Ron McHatton rmchatton at photocircuits.com> on 2001.01.09 at 01:10:10(5828)
You need to be very careful of cedar, cypress, and things like walnut
(black). These woods are very acidic (the source of their rot resistance).
Many epiphytes will not grow well attached to these materials. It's worth
a try, just watch the plants and replace those that don't do well.
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-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Carroll [SMTP:zzamia@hargray.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 10:31 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L
Subject: Re: Three questions
You could also use a dead tree it
>wil rot but can be used for awhile.
If ever to a coastal area in the east......a dead red cedar or cypress
would
be very resistant to rot.
the cedar would be of a more branched and managable size though
Neil
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From: Jonathan Ertelt jonathan.ertelt at vanderbilt.edu> on 2001.01.09 at 01:11:45(5829)
My apologies if this is a duplicate - I sent this response to Adam Black
and to the aroid listserve, which means that I should have received a copy
back from the latter as a subscriber, but I never saw it posted. This may
mean that there is once again confusion regarding which terminal I'm
sending from, even though my name and email accounts are the same on both.
Thought that this was resolved six months ago - anyway, this may just be a
glitch. I did think that the ideas presented might be of some interest to
other folks on the list as well as Adam, so am resending below. Again,
sorry if it is duplication.
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At 9:04 AM -0600 1/7/01, Adam Black wrote:
>Any help with the following questions would be greatly appreciated.
Adam,
I have no answer without research for Questions 1 and 2. However, regarding
question 3, I have two answers.
>Question 3:
>I would like to grow my epiphytes in my greenhouse epiphyticly, and would
>like to construct a tree using artificial and or natural materials. I am
>hesitant to use natural branches, as I am worried they will rot within a
>year or so. In the conservatory at Fairchild Tropical Gardens in Miami, I
>liked the way they constructed their bromeliad tree, which consisted of PVC
>"branches" covered with sections of cork bark.
The first answer is that the expense of cork bark is a relative thing -
when I last built epiphyte trees using cork, I started with a bale of small
tubes and a bale of large tubes, ordered at roughly $100 each from the
Maryland Cork Co. From the bale of small tubes I was able to successfully
reassemble more than half a dozen branches, several of them eight to ten
feet long. Using rebar (or pvc like they did at Fairchild) as a frame and
then adding structural strength by using the polyurethane-isocyanate
(expandable foam) you can make impressive branches that will last a long time
and be home to numerous epiphytes. (I used the bale of large cork tubes,
mostly broken in half and then "sewn" back together, to form the three foot
plus diameter of the tree.)
If even the large quantity of cork bark sounds like too much, look for
native or introduced "weed" trees in your area that are hard woods with
bark that doesn't immediately slough off. Sassafras is one good and fairly
well known possibility. Another possibility perhaps less well-known is the
osage orange or hedge apple (_Maclura pomifera_, a temperate member of the
fig family). Definitely not a true orange, with large green brain-like
round fruit and impressively spiney/thorny new shoots, older branches last
an impressively long time hung up with epiphytes - easily ten years or so
in many cases. Though for temperate trees in the fig family, this is the
only one I know with this character -- certainly the common mulberry trees
do not hold their bark like this once the brances are cut off. Good
Growing.
Jonathan Ertelt
Jonathan Ertelt
Greenhouse Manager
Vanderbilt University Biology Department
Box 1812, Sta. B
Nashville, TN 37235
(615) 322-4054
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From: Ron McHatton rmchatton at photocircuits.com> on 2001.01.09 at 01:13:20(5830)
Another alternative, if you can get your hands on one, would be a dead
citrus tree. The bark does not come off, most epiphytes grow well on
citrus and the wood is hard as nails and seems to resist rot rather well.
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-----Original Message-----
From: Neil Carroll [SMTP:zzamia@hargray.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2001 10:31 PM
To: Multiple recipients of list AROID-L
Subject: Re: Three questions
You could also use a dead tree it
>wil rot but can be used for awhile.
If ever to a coastal area in the east......a dead red cedar or cypress
would
be very resistant to rot.
the cedar would be of a more branched and managable size though
Neil
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